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It is currently Thu Apr 18, 2024 7:46 pm
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Pablo
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Location: Everson, WA
Joined: Sun Jan 6, 2013
Posts: 28178
Real Name: Ace Winky
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RocketScott wrote: Tried to pull the front step out without success As far as I can tell it was poured after the foundation. There’s no rebar in it but man is it stuck. I’m tempted to rip it out with the boom truck but I don’t want to also rip a hole in the foundation Thoughts? Might try pouring muriatic acid between the step and the foundation to see if that would loosen it up  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 
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| Wed Oct 28, 2020 3:50 pm |
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Arisaka
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Location: Tacoma
Joined: Sat May 4, 2013
Posts: 6214
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RocketScott, If the guy who put the step in knew what he was doing, he would have drilled into the foundation and smacked in some anchor bolts. And then poured the step around the bolts. This ties the two together and prevents the step from settling. What you need is a jackhammer!
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| Wed Oct 28, 2020 4:20 pm |
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Selador
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Location: Index
Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2012
Posts: 12963
Real Name: Jeff
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Wedges and feathers.
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| Wed Oct 28, 2020 5:06 pm |
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RocketScott
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Location: Kentucky
Joined: Fri Jan 16, 2015
Posts: 11088
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I've got a bigaz rotohammer. I ran a chisel around the edges (top and left side) trying to get it to pop off. The foundation doesn't chip away when I do that, just the step I did undercut it by maybe half, or a little more. There's actually a cavity in the middle and I think the only contact with the foundation is 4" around the perimeter The line of holes down the middle were to split it in half (divide and conquer). I drilled those then drove a wedge in one of the holes near the edge. it cracked down the middle but didn't come off the foundation The hole in the step goes into the cavity. I was thinking about chaining it up to the boom and pulling on it. Then I though "Hey, I should show the guys on WaGuns this clusterF before I rip a hole in the foundation" I like your style Pablo...
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| Wed Oct 28, 2020 5:24 pm |
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RENCORP
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Location: East of Japan, not by much.
Joined: Fri Jun 3, 2011
Posts: 12990
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They probably did it right - drilled into the foundation, and tied re-bar in the step directly to the foundation. Jack hammer it out a piece at a time. Then, cutting torch for the re-bar.
Boom truck it, and all you will have left is a great video of your whole house collapsing when you tear out the entire foundation wall on that side.
YouTube legendary status though..............................
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| Wed Oct 28, 2020 8:07 pm |
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RocketScott
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Location: Kentucky
Joined: Fri Jan 16, 2015
Posts: 11088
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There isn’t a foot of rebar in the entire foundation
It was poured in the 50s
I cut the access hole at the back all the way down to the footing (it does actually have a footing, some didn’t back then). 6” thick, 5’ tall, no rebar
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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| Wed Oct 28, 2020 8:31 pm |
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Daveygravey89
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Location: Eatonville
Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014
Posts: 1266
Real Name: Dave
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RocketScott wrote: There isn’t a foot of rebar in the entire foundation
It was poured in the 50s
I cut the access hole at the back all the way down to the footing (it does actually have a footing, some didn’t back then). 6” thick, 5’ tall, no rebar
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Even if the foundation. Doesn’t have steel, if it’s not moving from wedging and a chisel bit I’m sure they did apoxy rebar dowels, even on a 4” slab you apoxy dowels usually ever 8-12” so I’m sure there are several dowels in that step.
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1 Corinthians 16:13-14
13 Be on your guard; stand firm in the faith; be courageous; be strong. 14 Do everything in love.
2 Corinthians 4:16
16 Therefore we do not lose heart. Though outwardly we are wasting away, yet inwardly we are being renewed day by day.
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| Thu Oct 29, 2020 4:12 am |
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NWRed
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Location: Puyallup for now
Joined: Tue May 24, 2011
Posts: 2099
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Daveygravey89 wrote: RocketScott wrote: There isn’t a foot of rebar in the entire foundation
It was poured in the 50s
I cut the access hole at the back all the way down to the footing (it does actually have a footing, some didn’t back then). 6” thick, 5’ tall, no rebar
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Even if the foundation. Doesn’t have steel, if it’s not moving from wedging and a chisel bit I’m sure they did apoxy rebar dowels, even on a 4” slab you apoxy dowels usually ever 8-12” so I’m sure there are several dowels in that step. Doesnt need to be epoxied in, slightly undersized hole and hammer in rebar dowels , it isn't pulling out without a lot force applied.
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| Fri Oct 30, 2020 4:48 pm |
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NWRed
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Location: Puyallup for now
Joined: Tue May 24, 2011
Posts: 2099
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Bought a smooth faced framing hammer from amazon by mistake, between taking a loss on a return and the waffle faced replacement costing about 30% more I just decided to dimple the face. The upper and lower extremes of the face are much harder than the middle, going to see about buying a diff drill bit and try some more tomorrow. 
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| Fri Dec 18, 2020 10:37 pm |
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Selador
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Location: Index
Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2012
Posts: 12963
Real Name: Jeff
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NWRed wrote: Bought a smooth faced framing hammer from amazon by mistake, between taking a loss on a return and the waffle faced replacement costing about 30% more I just decided to dimple the face. The upper and lower extremes of the face are much harder than the middle, going to see about buying a diff drill bit and try some more tomorrow. Just use a small cutting wheel on a dremel and cut a waffle design.
_________________
-Jeff
How can I help you, and/or make you smile, today?
You are entitled to your opinion. You are not entitled to tell me what mine must be.
Do justice. Love mercy.
“I would rather have questions that can't be answered than answers that can't be questioned.” ~ Richard P. Feynman
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| Fri Dec 18, 2020 11:00 pm |
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Arisaka
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Location: Tacoma
Joined: Sat May 4, 2013
Posts: 6214
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I never saw the need for dimpling or cross hatching. A smooth-faced hammer works just fine.
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| Fri Dec 18, 2020 11:03 pm |
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NWRed
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Location: Puyallup for now
Joined: Tue May 24, 2011
Posts: 2099
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Arisaka wrote: I never saw the need for dimpling or cross hatching. A smooth-faced hammer works just fine. I bend a lot of nails with a worn out waffle face  Selador wrote: Just use a small cutting wheel on a dremel and cut a waffle design. Waffles wear out/flatten fairly quickly hitting steel stuff at work (adjustable screwjacks/rebar/formwork spikes/steel stakes etc) , dimples last a lot longer. I may end up waffling the edges with a dremel if I run into issues with the hardness trying to dimple it any further
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| Fri Dec 18, 2020 11:17 pm |
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RocketScott
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Location: Kentucky
Joined: Fri Jan 16, 2015
Posts: 11088
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I've always bought waffled hammers. They get worn down after a while and I've never bothered to clean them up, so I guess they are semi-smooth. One guy I worked with said I was a shitty carpenter if I needed waffles on my hammer, whatever bro
I've got a bucket full of framing hammers if you want to grab a few extra, mostly 21/22oz fat max or vaughn. I use dead on now and have about a half dozen or so. I break handles often enough that I order them by the dozen and fix a few at a time
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You may be right, I may be crazy, but it just may be a lunatic you're looking for
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| Sat Dec 19, 2020 8:01 am |
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Arisaka
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Location: Tacoma
Joined: Sat May 4, 2013
Posts: 6214
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RocketScott wrote: I break handles often enough that I order them by the dozen and fix a few at a time Goddamn Scott, you must really hate nails.
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| Sat Dec 19, 2020 10:04 am |
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Traut
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Location: Downtown Newcastle
Joined: Sat Mar 5, 2016
Posts: 3447
Real Name: Traut
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Use the metal part to hit the nails Scott. It's a lot easier on the handles. Just sayin'.
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| Sat Dec 19, 2020 11:57 am |
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