I've thought about doing this once but never got around to it.

i hope this fits in with barrels, so a couple questions about muzzle brakes. do they effect the bullet at all, and is thier a effective one for a 308. i know i need some more trigger time and need to work on my technique but im getting bipod hop off concrete and it doesnt happen when its in the dirt.

Are you properly loading the bipod? Also, curious to know what contour barrel do you have, as light contour barrels will have a tendency to hop more due to less weight.

Typically we see bipod hop when the shooter isn't squarely behind the rifle. Are you shooting prone or from a bench? It's a little more difficult from a bench, but still possible. From prone it's a matter of making sure your body isn't at an angle in relation to the bore. Shoulders and hips should be perpendicular to the bore, and if you were to draw a line back along your body, a right handed shooter should have the bore aligned with the inside of their right knee. This position is the most effective for recoil management and follow up shots.

Ditto on all the above.

Also---

If your rifle has two sling studs, try attaching the bipod to the rear stud. This puts some more weight on the 'pod.

My stock has the Anshutz type rail on the bottom and I can move the 'pod back and forth to reduc some of the hop.

Hears a great article on shooting without "bipod hop".

http://www.accurateshooter.com/shooting-skills/bugholes-from-bipod/

If you're shooting from a bench made of concrete or smooth wood consider putting a piece of carpet on it that you've nailed a piece of wood furring strip to. Just get a scrap from the carpet store cut it to the shape of the bench. Then place a piece of furring strip under it where the bipod legs will sit and put a couple of short drywall screws through from the top.

This will give you not only a more comfortable place to lay your arms, but a "ridge" to load the bipod against. Dirt allows for the legs to dig in. Many shooting mats now have a strip sewn into them to catch the legs when they slide.

It a rem 5r in a mcree chassis, I have been shooting from the prone position. Im sure it is me, and I need to work on it but was curious if a muzzle brake would help my situation.

Thanks for the help

A "Brake" is designed to lessen recoil by directing muzzle gases to the side and back. A "Compensator" is designed to keep a barrel from rising.

With a 308 that usually has a more than manageable recoil I personally don't care for a brake. I'd work on position more.

Another direction is a more sturdy bipod than a harris or harris style with the screen door springs. An Atlas bipod is a lot more stable as well as the Sinclair Tactical Bipod. I have the latter and find it a lot less prone to "Hopping" when shooting from a hard surface. Nice feature on these is the ability to widen the stance of legs. Wider stance leads to less "rotation" and also less jump. It's also nice to watch the cross-hairs remain on target even when preloading. No rise or fall like with a traditional harris type 'pod. Bad part is that the Atlas pods are hard to get and the Sinclair is $200.

Any experience with the B.O.S.S. system?
Took me a billion rounds to find the sweet spot when the barrel is warm and can punch rounds in a fifty cent piece at 200 yds but........finding the adjustment for repeatable cold shot has been pertnear impossible even with velocities within 10 fps of each round.
Of course part of the problem is the time to duplicate real world hunting conditions, fire 3 rounds swab it and park it for a couple of hours. That in itself makes for an entire day to just fire off 15-20 to rounds.
Bout ready to pull the thing off but, love the hot barrel tack driving shots at distances at and over 200 yds.

Deleted.

the original post is accurate in my experience. On the other hand I have found the largest detriment to accuracy is a "loose nut" on the trigger. I have seen many rifles with questionable bores shoot very accurately (sub moa). A recut crown, bedding the front of the receiver and chamber area of the barrel, floating the barrel, and ensuring tight headspace by setting the barrel back a turn and recutting the chamber.

I did see an interesting experiment once. A customer brought us an action with a sporter barrel, had us thread the muzzle end, fit a stainless tube and an endcap to it. Fitted together in the customers stock with a few pounds torque on the endcap, it shot a <.5" group @ 100 yards. Not a special barrel either, factory remington.

Necro thread, but a good one. I wonder what happened to Samurai? Great guy and an awesome shooter, i miss him being around.

Thanks for taking the time to write this OP. It has me thinking. Why do you think it’s better to leave the copper in the barrel?

I’ve looked into it and found out that Copper-Copper had a higher coefficient of friction vs Copper-Steel (1.0 vs 5.3). Have you noticed higher fps with copper in barrel or just more consistency? I would think it would be better to have consistent friction vs variable.

https://www.engineersedge.com/coeffient ... iction.htm