Looking to thread a Henry 22 lever action so I can throw a can on to have a fun varmint gun.

How hard is it to keep aligned with using what I think would be properly gaged starting TATs and Annulling with a pilot?

Confident enough for a muzzle device but worried about baffle strikes. Thank you

Well, since you only have one real chance to get this right…

I would have to differ to just common sense and say no.

Leave the threading to the pros.

It’s unlikely you have all the tools and know how to do this right. I’m not trying to put you down but optimally the pros have gear and tools that most of us common people have any knowledge to use properly.

As you mentioned almost anyone can thread for a muzzle device since it’s really not a deal breaker if you are off by 0.001” off. Since most muzzle devices don’t extend more than 0.5”-1” from the muzzle end.

Risking a suppressor would be costly for a one off. To invest and do one on your own for just one would be a risk-benefit ratio Not in favor of any John Doe doing it in their home garage.

Granted I do not know your background and what all tools you have.

Given the expense and time to get the can, just spend $300 on a threaded 22 rifle. Don’t risk damaging your can to save a few bucks.

Id suggest Morgan at Class3, FAST turn around times. But you need to provide a return shipping label, I use pirateship.com these days to create all my shipping labels, it's worked out pretty well.


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Lever Actions
$100 only threading and receiver is totally stripped
$150 cut, crown and thread lever action if stripped (no mag work)

What henry model

I’ve thought about the same with mine, but you wouldn’t be able to reload with can on, as the tube won’t come out with it on.

OldKim,

Thanks for the advice. I think I will attempt it but pull all the baffles and end caps with live fire checks. If it turns out bad, then I can hand it off to a pro to add a thread adapter to 1/2-28 or just have it as a reminder of something I attempted.

Mustang,

Its the basic H001. It cost me $270 after tax, so at least its cheap experiment.

I'm late to the party but using a lathe is the best way. You need to ensure you're concentric to the bore not to the exterior of the barrel. It's easy to thread a barrel for a flash hider or something as those tend to be huge. If you use a threading device that basis it on the exterior you risk that when the barrel was bored out they ensured it was centered. If that bore is not centered then it will be off.

This will be a fun gun once you get a can on it.

Thanks for the advice Unicorn. What you described using a bore alignment rod with multiple points for co-alignment along the borecenter projection is the way to go. I was going to go with the Accuracy Solutions, which seems like a good value/quality rod for lathe alignment.

My buddy who does these in AZ who makes his forms 1s says he uses a reliable TAT and just throws it on the lathe to check centerness of the tat OD to bore center during first use and compare values with a bore alignment rod.

will be a fun time any way.

Last gun I bought was a Henry Silver Roy 22 carbine. I think its too nice to have threaded as is but that's when thinking of my own rifle. I too would suggest just picking up some 22 rifle that's already threaded and probably costs a lot less. I have a Beretta 22lr ARX160 thats already setup to take a can as its got a nato style FS on it. Lots of more cheaper options out there that would not risk damage to an expensive 22 rifle that has a magazine tube in the way.

I agree that your Silver Roy is too nice to do this to. This is the cheapest Henry 22 they make and cost me $272 out the door. I just want a lever action that I can suppress as all the other 22s I own semi-autos. The threaded 24" is unfortunately about $600 out the door now. Worst case scenario, it fails with the rod check and just cover it with a thread cover after bueing.

Sending it to someone to do it right will cost you less than buying to tools to do an "almost OK" job on this. The chances of you getting it right enough for good accuracy are pretty slim.

I’ve thought about it also, But without modding the tube, you won’t be able to reload it.

What are you doing to remedy it?

The frontier model is ready to go to suppress.

I've seen modifications where the tube is hung lower at the muzzle end, just enough to clear a suppressor. It looks a little funny, but wouldn't have to move all that far if he sticks with 1" diameter 22 suppressors.

The other option is a QD mount on the muzzle, like the adapters that Dead Air came out with recently for 9mm and I think .22 barrels.

Without one of those though, I wouldn't bother with a suppressor on a tube-fed rifle. Unscrewing the suppressor every time you need to reload will get old really quick.

thread it to a larger thread, use a converter to 1/2-28, Will stick out further and the chamfering should not be screwed up as bad as the 22 pistol thread adapters that go from a shorter thread to 1/2-28. Would expect some poi shift but not terrible. Plus if it fails alignment check, pay the man to do it right.