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 Black Walnut Project 
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My part of the project is trying to get the best pieces out of this Black Walnut log, and one other.
This one is about 10' long, and has an S shape. I am trying to figure out the best cut pattern.

Big S
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Roughly 10' 8" long
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Parallax Poor camera angle makes this look a bit smaller than it is. It's about 24".
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The biggest problem with figuring out what to do with this and all the other logs that are in queue is trying to do the work one-armed. I am a one-armed lefty until I get some shoulder work done.


Sat Oct 13, 2018 4:14 pm
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rookie speaking pic 3 where the split is I'd cut that angle as it looks to be rolled on that side from pic one to max the best cuts


both ends on the ground as it were to lay then horizontal cut it

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Sat Oct 13, 2018 4:48 pm
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cmica wrote:
rookie speaking pic 3 where the split is I'd cut that angle as it looks to be rolled on that side from pic one to max the best cuts


both ends on the ground as it were to lay then horizontal cut it

Good eye Chris. That's not rookie. That's exactly what we do when we mill, unless there are other factors that override.
In this case I am thinking of rotating clockwise (looking at that end that you referenced) to put this face down flat on the mill...

The S shape is relatively flat along this face. The downside is that the stress crack that you noticed won't be parallel with the blade.
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I heard you're coming back here in 3 weeks. Maybe I'll have you operate the crank for me, as I'll have one arm in a sling or cast. :thumbsup2:


Sat Oct 13, 2018 4:54 pm
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Another possibility that I'm mulling over is to cut it in roughly halves, and slabbing each of the halves.
That S shape over ~10' and ~24" thick is going to be a real bear of a workout for me, the mill, and my sharpener.


Sat Oct 13, 2018 5:05 pm
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What's the story with the the arm? Rotator cuff??
Need help pre or post surgery, I'm your huckleberry. Give me a holler.

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Sat Oct 13, 2018 11:05 pm
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How is the wood inside? How wide is the hartwood band? Is there a lot of ribbon or other figuring? If so, you may consider making veneer flitches instead of a single thick slab, and getting the most out of the wood.


Sun Oct 14, 2018 5:03 pm
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Traut wrote:
What's the story with the the arm? Rotator cuff??
Need help pre or post surgery, I'm your huckleberry. Give me a holler.


:bow: Thank you very kindly brother Traut. Yes, rotator cuff. Will know more tomorrow afternoon.
If I am forced to take a few months off, it'll just build steam pressure so I work harder in the spring. Is that how it works? :cheers2:


Sun Oct 14, 2018 5:11 pm
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CkinEverett wrote:
How is the wood inside? How wide is the hartwood band? Is there a lot of ribbon or other figuring? If so, you may consider making veneer flitches instead of a single thick slab, and getting the most out of the wood.

I haven't opened it yet, so unsure of the figure.

My mill cuts about 1/16" kerf... Never considered cutting veneers. I don't have experience marketing veneer either.
The milling has mostly been a hobby and small part time income, but a delay in finishing a building project has turned it into our sole income for the time being.

I would not have taken a single thick slab though, but several.
Do you have practical experience to share regarding veneers? Would love an education.


Sun Oct 14, 2018 5:17 pm
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As far as making veneer, most are made between 1/32" and 1/16" for flitches. Generally, you would need a shop that can process your log to make them. There are several ways the flitches can be made. The method used in making them determines the appearance of the veneer produced. Taking a look online for veneer production methods will give you an idea of the different methods used in producing veneers and how they affect the appearance of the finished product. It can be expensive, but take into account that a finished piece with a distinctive appearance can command a premium price.


Wed Oct 17, 2018 5:36 pm
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CkinEverett wrote:
As far as making veneer, most are made between 1/32" and 1/16" for flitches. Generally, you would need a shop that can process your log to make them. There are several ways the flitches can be made. The method used in making them determines the appearance of the veneer produced. Taking a look online for veneer production methods will give you an idea of the different methods used in producing veneers and how they affect the appearance of the finished product. It can be expensive, but take into account that a finished piece with a distinctive appearance can command a premium price.


Maybe it's silly, but I generally don't look for the way to maximize the $ value of my logs. I look for the results that are aesthetically pleasing to me as a part time sawyer, not as a full time business.
I prefer thick slabs. Veneering a log is a way to get a beautiful grain to a lot of people... But to my old-timey way of thinking, it's a cheap substitute for a solid piece.
Your advice is good though, and when I come up with logs that are worthy of veneering I should probably look for someone who is capable of doing it and trade them for more slab logs. :thumbsup2:


Fri Oct 19, 2018 10:54 am
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PMB wrote:
CkinEverett wrote:
As far as making veneer, most are made between 1/32" and 1/16" for flitches. Generally, you would need a shop that can process your log to make them. There are several ways the flitches can be made. The method used in making them determines the appearance of the veneer produced. Taking a look online for veneer production methods will give you an idea of the different methods used in producing veneers and how they affect the appearance of the finished product. It can be expensive, but take into account that a finished piece with a distinctive appearance can command a premium price.


Maybe it's silly, but I generally don't look for the way to maximize the $ value of my logs. I look for the results that are aesthetically pleasing to me as a part time sawyer, not as a full time business.
I prefer thick slabs. Veneering a log is a way to get a beautiful grain to a lot of people... But to my old-timey way of thinking, it's a cheap substitute for a solid piece.
Your advice is good though, and when I come up with logs that are worthy of veneering I should probably look for someone who is capable of doing it and trade them for more slab logs. :thumbsup2:


My thoughts exactly. Why own a VW kit car that looks like a Ferrari when you can have a SOLID chunk of real Ferrari. lol!


Fri Oct 19, 2018 12:54 pm
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I understand your Love of slabs. I agree that slabs are sweet and make a great components for many applications. I disagree with your thinking about veneer, however.
Veneers have valid applications where slabs and even dimentional lumber will not fit the bill. Parqetry and marquetry inlays are particular good uses of veneer, as well as plywood applications for cabinet making where the weight, cost, strength, and dimensional stability outweighs use of solid stock. In addition, applications where curved planar surfaces are part of a design, building an interior frame with veneers wrapping the frame can save weight and cost.
Of course, nothing can substitute for a live edged slab if that is what the design calls for. I am a big believer when it comes to using the right materials for a given application. It kills me whenever someone suggests that solid stock cabinets (assuming someone would actually make a set) would be superior to plywood constriction. The same applies to use of slab and dimentional lumber.
As far as pure asthetics go, there are presentations of ribbon, burl and other beautiful aspects of a given piece of wood (such as quartersawn panels and anagre ribboning) that cannot be produced except by using a specific veneer cutting method.
To borrow your analogy, in reality the Ferraris are often constructed of veneer, and the clunky VWs are not. They did not make Stradivarius instruments because veneers were inferior to solid stock.


Fri Oct 19, 2018 2:31 pm
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CkinEverett wrote:
I understand your Love of slabs. I agree that slabs are sweet and make a great components for many applications. I disagree with your thinking about veneer, however.
Veneers have valid applications where slabs and even dimentional lumber will not fit the bill. Parqetry and marquetry inlays are particular good uses of veneer, as well as plywood applications for cabinet making where the weight, cost, strength, and dimensional stability outweighs use of solid stock. In addition, applications where curved planar surfaces are part of a design, building an interior frame with veneers wrapping the frame can save weight and cost.
Of course, nothing can substitute for a live edged slab if that is what the design calls for. I am a big believer when it comes to using the right materials for a given application. It kills me whenever someone suggests that solid stock cabinets (assuming someone would actually make a set) would be superior to plywood constriction. The same applies to use of slab and dimentional lumber.
As far as pure asthetics go, there are presentations of ribbon, burl and other beautiful aspects of a given piece of wood (such as quartersawn panels and anagre ribboning) that cannot be produced except by using a specific veneer cutting method.
To borrow your analogy, in reality the Ferraris are often constructed of veneer, and the clunky VWs are not. They did not make Stradivarius instruments because veneers were inferior to solid stock.


Grandpa's. Its in a display case at my house.


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Fri Oct 19, 2018 3:24 pm
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Fri Oct 26, 2018 6:03 am
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