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 Stuck Oil Filter 
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Location: Puyallup
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Real Name: Glenn(sted)
Ok, we work on both Chevy's and Ford's, have 63 in the fleet. We do everything but paint here and have some units that get an oil change every 10-14 days.
There's something about the square cut seal ring on Chevy filters, plain and simple.
Chevy filters can be a bitch to get off going just barely hand tight and using oil as lubricant on the seal. We often use grease now.
I've been in this game a long time, recent Chev oil filter seals are a bitch to break loose. 6.6 oil pan and drain plug, will weep unless mechanic tight. And then replace the plug roughly every 5th oil change.


Thu Feb 18, 2021 1:55 pm
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Real Name: Jeff
NWRed wrote:
high school shop class. did the instructors car, his previous assistant had done the oil change last time. same thing, the oil filter wouldnt budge, my partner and I drove a screwdriver through the body. tore the fim lter body off as we turned it. ended up using a flat blade screw driver as a chisel and cut the rest of the filter body off. iirc, we pried and used something as a punch to get the filter base to break free and turn enough to loosen it up. never seen one like that since, but i hate working on cars and avoid it if practical

Was this a 'favorite' instructor? Or a hated one?

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Thu Feb 18, 2021 3:40 pm
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I used to do my own, but Oil Can Henry's has always done me right and used my oil and filters

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Thu Feb 18, 2021 6:23 pm
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STED9R wrote:
Ok, we work on both Chevy's and Ford's, have 63 in the fleet. We do everything but paint here and have some units that get an oil change every 10-14 days.
There's something about the square cut seal ring on Chevy filters, plain and simple.
Chevy filters can be a bitch to get off going just barely hand tight and using oil as lubricant on the seal. We often use grease now.
I've been in this game a long time, recent Chev oil filter seals are a bitch to break loose. 6.6 oil pan and drain plug, will weep unless mechanic tight. And then replace the plug roughly every 5th oil change.


Wonder if it's the machining on the block that's different

Possible that it's rough enough to grip the seal. Try running some emery cloth over it and see if the filters spin off easier

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Thu Feb 18, 2021 11:29 pm
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RocketScott wrote:
STED9R wrote:
Ok, we work on both Chevy's and Ford's, have 63 in the fleet. We do everything but paint here and have some units that get an oil change every 10-14 days.
There's something about the square cut seal ring on Chevy filters, plain and simple.
Chevy filters can be a bitch to get off going just barely hand tight and using oil as lubricant on the seal. We often use grease now.
I've been in this game a long time, recent Chev oil filter seals are a bitch to break loose. 6.6 oil pan and drain plug, will weep unless mechanic tight. And then replace the plug roughly every 5th oil change.


Wonder if it's the machining on the block that's different

Possible that it's rough enough to grip the seal. Try running some emery cloth over it and see if the filters spin off easier

Smooth aluminum filter/cooling housing, both Chev and Ford. Whatever ingredients are in their seal, is the issue.
Kid is laid up so I'm pulling double duty in the shop, 1 each of Ford and Chev today, cussed the chev hanging on the nylon strap to loosen the filter, while the Ford the standard filter strap rolled it right off.


Sat Feb 20, 2021 6:21 pm
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Just outta curiosity, when lubing the new gasket, are you using new oil or a touch of the used?

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Sat Feb 20, 2021 8:02 pm
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It's rare that I use actual motorcraft filters on my truck

Usually whatever looks good when I buy it, or comes with the oil change special. Mostly fram or stp. All turn right off by hand. It's rare that I need to break out the strap wrench but I only turn them about a 1/4 turn past the gasket making contact with the block

Baldwin on the big rig, although I've got some fleetguard oil filters here and there. Those I put on a little tighter and about half the time need to use a strap wrench

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Sat Feb 20, 2021 9:18 pm
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