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It is currently Sun May 05, 2024 5:36 pm
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dreadi
Site Supporter / FFL Dealer
Location: Tacoma, Washington Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2014 Posts: 8395
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Hmmm. If the holes in rear aren't parallel then yes, but, it's not tapped. The mount uses the original holes for the rear leaf sight pin.
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Wed Apr 05, 2017 7:47 pm |
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usrifle
Site Supporter
Location: RENTON Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 Posts: 20771
Real Name: John
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dreadi wrote: Hmmm. If the holes in rear aren't parallel then yes, but, it's not tapped. The mount uses the original holes for the rear leaf sight pin. Rigid holes, windeage was in the front sight originally so minor alignment wouldn't matter. Not to mention the aftermarket sight base may be off.
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Wed Apr 05, 2017 7:58 pm |
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dreadi
Site Supporter / FFL Dealer
Location: Tacoma, Washington Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2014 Posts: 8395
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A couple things.
1. Parallax. For this scope it's set to 100 yards and I've been shooting at 50. I wonder if I'm experiencing enough to have me shooting way off.
Supposing I don't, 2. What does 1/4 MOA equal to in inches? Well that depends on your target distance right? I'm trying to understand how much movement I need to make from shims to get the scope on point. I stacked up .008" in machine stock and put it at the bottom of the rear ring and another .008" stack on the right side of the front ring. Both stacks are between the ring and scope.
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Sat Apr 08, 2017 6:59 pm |
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MadPick
Site Admin
Location: Renton, WA Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 Posts: 52134
Real Name: Steve
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dreadi wrote: A couple things.
1. Parallax. For this scope it's set to 100 yards and I've been shooting at 50. I wonder if I'm experiencing enough to have me shooting way off.
Supposing I don't, 2. What does 1/4 MOA equal to in inches? Well that depends on your target distance right? I'm trying to understand how much movement I need to make from shims to get the scope on point. I stacked up .008" in machine stock and put it at the bottom of the rear ring and another .008" stack on the right side of the front ring. Both stacks are between the ring and scope. 1. Use the parallax knob as a focus knob. Turn it until the target is sharp, then you're good. Don't worry about what distance is displayed on the knob. 2. One MOA is roughly one inch at 100 yards, so go from there. 1/4 MOA is 1/4 inch at 100 yards, 1/8 inch at 50 yards, 1/16 inch at 25 yards.
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Sat Apr 08, 2017 7:03 pm |
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dreadi
Site Supporter / FFL Dealer
Location: Tacoma, Washington Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2014 Posts: 8395
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No parallax knob on this scope.
So I need to figure how many thousandths of an inch are in 1/8 MOA?
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Sat Apr 08, 2017 7:39 pm |
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jdhbulseye
Site Supporter
Location: Rochester, WA Joined: Thu Mar 10, 2016 Posts: 3761
Real Name: Mr. Idgaf
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dreadi wrote: No parallax knob on this scope.
So I need to figure how many thousandths of an inch are in 1/8 MOA? 1 MOA = 1.047" @ 100yds 1/8 MOA = 0.130875" @ 100yds so @ 50yds its 0.0654375" Basically 65 thousandths
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Sun Apr 09, 2017 2:42 am |
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SAGELA
Site Supporter
Location: Kirkland Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 Posts: 239
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Dana, can you bring the project by the shop Monday morning? I'll bring my Swede scout for comparison. Maybe we both learn something. Reply by email so I'm sure to get the answer.
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Sun Apr 09, 2017 5:49 am |
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dreadi
Site Supporter / FFL Dealer
Location: Tacoma, Washington Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2014 Posts: 8395
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Shimmy shimmy yaw.... Finally got on paper at 100yds. I have a variety of brass and it all produced different speeds but, PPU appeared to be the most consistent. The barrel seems to heat up real fast and throw a flyer or two, but some more testing should clear this up. While they are not wonderful shots, it's good to know that I can get it right in the middle at 100yds on a cold barrel.
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Sat Apr 15, 2017 10:46 pm |
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usrifle
Site Supporter
Location: RENTON Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 Posts: 20771
Real Name: John
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So what caused the original issues? Did you shim it?
_________________ Mr. Q wrote: so basically, if you have to smoke some asshole, make sure they become fertilizer and then Bounce? got it.
Guntrader wrote: Huh, maybe I was an asshole.
NRA Member/RSO SAF 5 Year Donor GOA Member
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Sat Apr 15, 2017 11:37 pm |
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dreadi
Site Supporter / FFL Dealer
Location: Tacoma, Washington Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2014 Posts: 8395
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Yes, I shimmed it and bore sighted it, then shot it. It took me three or four times to get it right but, it's better. Sagela suggested a method for correction that would have taken just one shot but, I didn't have enough MOA left in the turrets. Even with them turned max I was 7" away from center. I suspect that mount is machined fine but, the rifle is likely not square. Even to get the reticle level I use three levels because the receiver is not flat or square where the magnet goes.
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Sun Apr 16, 2017 6:58 am |
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dreadi
Site Supporter / FFL Dealer
Location: Tacoma, Washington Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2014 Posts: 8395
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I'm happy to report that I've got it ringing 8" round steel plate at 100yds and used some Kentucky elevation to hit a 6"x12" steel at 200yds. Oh happy day. Out of the variety of brass I have for 7mmx57mm, the PPU is the most consistent with my load.
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Sun Jun 04, 2017 10:44 pm |
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Yondering
Site Supporter
Location: Skagit County, in the woods Joined: Tue Apr 7, 2015 Posts: 1058
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Are you sure that mount is locked down really solid? It doesn't look like the most solid or accurate attachment method, besides being a little high off the barrel too. If you decide to try a better mount, check out the XS scout mount for Mausers. http://www.xssights.com/products.aspx?CAT=8284 I built a scout rifle on a VZ-24 Mauser years ago and used this mount, it is rock solid and low profile too. You do have to remove the rear sight base from the barrel, but that's not too hard. This was a 19" featherweight barrel, chambered in 30-06.
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Mon Jun 05, 2017 11:29 am |
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dreadi
Site Supporter / FFL Dealer
Location: Tacoma, Washington Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2014 Posts: 8395
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Yes, it is.
How do you know yours is better?
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Mon Jun 05, 2017 12:23 pm |
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3584ELK
Site Supporter / FFL Dealer
Location: Lake Andes, S. Dakota Joined: Thu Aug 8, 2013 Posts: 1254
Real Name: Mark
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dreadi wrote: Yes, I shimmed it and bore sighted it, then shot it. It took me three or four times to get it right but, it's better. Sagela suggested a method for correction that would have taken just one shot but, I didn't have enough MOA left in the turrets. Even with them turned max I was 7" away from center. I suspect that mount is machined fine but, the rifle is likely not square. Even to get the reticle level I use three levels because the receiver is not flat or square where the magnet goes. This suggestion comes a little late in the game, but you could use the Burris rings and inserts to get there as well. The Burris setup comes with a handy little chart to help you figure out how much adjustment you need and where to rotate the rings. http://www.burrisoptics.com/mounting-systems/rings/xtr-signature-rings
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Mon Jun 05, 2017 1:55 pm |
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Sinus211
Site Moderator
Location: Marysville Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2012 Posts: 13518
Real Name: Mike
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dreadi wrote: Yes, it is.
How do you know yours is better?
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Mon Jun 05, 2017 3:31 pm |
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