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Stokes
Site Supporter
Location: Oly Joined: Thu Oct 4, 2012 Posts: 1353
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If it's 30cal, and not 8mm, bring it out and I'll crown it for you. I've the Dave Manson set.
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Tue Nov 29, 2016 12:02 am |
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dreadi
Site Supporter / FFL Dealer
Location: Tacoma, Washington Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2014 Posts: 8411
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She'll never be the same after loosing two inches. What started with a hacksaw, ended with a end mill. It wasn't square after the hack job and some filing but, about .008" taken off squares it and still right at 20" with enough to make a crown later and still call it 20". It's also sporting a scout mount now from S&K. While doing some prep work on the stock I saw that someone took the time to bed the action and install a pillar. I was surprised that someone took the time to do all that with this old warhorse.
_________________BLACK HAMMER ARMSBuy A Suppressor http://www.silencershop.com/blackhammerarmsType 7 Class 2 SOT NFA Dealer 1911 Pistolsmithing Firearm Refinishing GLOCK Certified Armorer CMMG Authorized Dealer NEMO Arms Authorized Dealer http://www.blackhammerarms.comhttp://www.facebook.com/blackhammerarmshttps://www.instagram.com/blackhammerarms/
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Sat Dec 03, 2016 1:42 pm |
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usrifle
Site Supporter
Location: RENTON Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 Posts: 20772
Real Name: John
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Good job dreadi, and bonus on the pillar bedding.
_________________ Mr. Q wrote: so basically, if you have to smoke some asshole, make sure they become fertilizer and then Bounce? got it.
Guntrader wrote: Huh, maybe I was an asshole.
NRA Member/RSO SAF 5 Year Donor GOA Member
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Sat Dec 03, 2016 2:43 pm |
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dreadi
Site Supporter / FFL Dealer
Location: Tacoma, Washington Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2014 Posts: 8411
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Thank you. Next weekend it gets blasted. Oh I should get some pics of the bolt post polishing too. It's nice.
Anyone have tips on polishing a bolt knob? It's round and kind of weird to cross polish.
_________________BLACK HAMMER ARMSBuy A Suppressor http://www.silencershop.com/blackhammerarmsType 7 Class 2 SOT NFA Dealer 1911 Pistolsmithing Firearm Refinishing GLOCK Certified Armorer CMMG Authorized Dealer NEMO Arms Authorized Dealer http://www.blackhammerarms.comhttp://www.facebook.com/blackhammerarmshttps://www.instagram.com/blackhammerarms/
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Sun Dec 04, 2016 12:50 am |
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Pablo
Site Supporter
Location: Everson, WA Joined: Sun Jan 6, 2013 Posts: 28209
Real Name: Ace Winky
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Did you weigh it to start? Are you aiming for Scout weight??
NICE on the cut. It's looks like there is a crack in your 2 incher.
_________________ Why does the Penguin in Batman sound like a duck?
Because the eagle sounds like a hawk.
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Sun Dec 04, 2016 6:18 am |
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deadshot2
Site Supporter
Location: Marysville, WA Joined: Fri Jul 22, 2011 Posts: 11581
Real Name: Mike
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Even after cutting off the 2", it still doesn't look like you've reached any real rifling yet.
Nice cut and finish however. I'd just get a round head machine screw, chuck it in a drill, and with some fine valve grinding compound lap the sharp edge on the bore. Then just file a radius on the OD. Smooth off with some 600 grit wet/dry cupped in the palm of your hand.
I wouldn't worry about using a crowning tool unless you have one readily available. You'll still be limited to the capabilities of the worn rifling.
_________________ "I've learned from the Dog that an afternoon nap is a good thing"
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"For he to-day that sheds his blood with me Shall be my brother" - William Shakespeare
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Sun Dec 04, 2016 7:25 am |
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Arisaka
Site Supporter
Location: Tacoma Joined: Sat May 4, 2013 Posts: 6240
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deadshot2 wrote: Even after cutting off the 2", it still doesn't look like you've reached any real rifling yet.
Nice cut and finish however. I'd just get a round head machine screw, chuck it in a drill, and with some fine valve grinding compound lap the sharp edge on the bore. Then just file a radius on the OD. Smooth off with some 600 grit wet/dry cupped in the palm of your hand.
I wouldn't worry about using a crowning tool unless you have one readily available. You'll still be limited to the capabilities of the worn rifling. Look like a smooth bore still. Maybe hack off another chunk?
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Sun Dec 04, 2016 10:20 am |
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Pablo
Site Supporter
Location: Everson, WA Joined: Sun Jan 6, 2013 Posts: 28209
Real Name: Ace Winky
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Will need to remove the ID burr first, methinks.
_________________ Why does the Penguin in Batman sound like a duck?
Because the eagle sounds like a hawk.
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Sun Dec 04, 2016 10:23 am |
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Rix86
Site Supporter
Location: Shelton Joined: Sun Nov 17, 2013 Posts: 5838
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I have the action wrench and vice blocks
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Sun Dec 04, 2016 2:53 pm |
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dreadi
Site Supporter / FFL Dealer
Location: Tacoma, Washington Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2014 Posts: 8411
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Pics
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Sun Dec 04, 2016 8:13 pm |
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survivor
Site Supporter
Location: Kent Joined: Wed Mar 13, 2013 Posts: 1663
Real Name: Andy
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deadshot2 wrote: Nice cut and finish however. I'd just get a round head machine screw, chuck it in a drill, and with some fine valve grinding compound lap the sharp edge on the bore. Then just file a radius on the OD. Smooth off with some 600 grit wet/dry cupped in the palm of your hand.
I wouldn't worry about using a crowning tool unless you have one readily available. You'll still be limited to the capabilities of the worn rifling.
This ^^^. Then just take it out and shoot it. See what it does.
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Sun Dec 04, 2016 8:32 pm |
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dreadi
Site Supporter / FFL Dealer
Location: Tacoma, Washington Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2014 Posts: 8411
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What's the grit of valve grinding compound? I've got some 600 diamond lapping compound.
This rifle won't get shot again until after blasting, Duracoat, reassembly, and scope mounted. So...maybe 2017 before. Duracoat recommends 24 before reassembly and light use but, from my experience unless you're accelerating the curing, you're better off waiting three weeks until it's fully cured.
_________________BLACK HAMMER ARMSBuy A Suppressor http://www.silencershop.com/blackhammerarmsType 7 Class 2 SOT NFA Dealer 1911 Pistolsmithing Firearm Refinishing GLOCK Certified Armorer CMMG Authorized Dealer NEMO Arms Authorized Dealer http://www.blackhammerarms.comhttp://www.facebook.com/blackhammerarmshttps://www.instagram.com/blackhammerarms/
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Sun Dec 04, 2016 10:14 pm |
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deadshot2
Site Supporter
Location: Marysville, WA Joined: Fri Jul 22, 2011 Posts: 11581
Real Name: Mike
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dreadi wrote: What's the grit of valve grinding compound? I've got some 600 diamond lapping compound.
This rifle won't get shot again until after blasting, Duracoat, reassembly, and scope mounted. So...maybe 2017 before. Duracoat recommends 24 before reassembly and light use but, from my experience unless you're accelerating the curing, you're better off waiting three weeks until it's fully cured. From the pic's the rifling looks better than I thought although it doesn't show at the cut like most do. The 600 grit you have will work fine for lapping the muzzle. Don't overdo it, you just want a slight bevel with a width of 1/32 or so. Just "break" the edge" and don't "countersink" it As for the bore, you really need to lap that. Get a metal cleaning rod with a metal patch loop. Wrap some twine around the rod about an inch back from where the loop screws in and insert it the bore. Easy if you put the rod in from the breech, push through so it extends out the muzzle then wrap the twine. When you pull the rod back use a BBQ skewer or small metal rod to push the string into the bore so you can maintain the 1" separation with the loop. Now melt some fishing sinkers and pour the lead into the muzzle. It often helps to warm the muzzle with a butane torch at least hot enough where a drop of water will sizzle. Don't worry, your barrel won't melt for anther thousand degrees or so. When the lead cools, tap the rod and drive the "hard lap" out. You should have a perfect mold of the bore. Now score some grooves around the "lap" to hold some lapping compound. With the barrel clamped in a vise, reinsert the lap in the bore, making sure it lines up with the riflings and preferably the same ones as when it was poured. A witness mark on the barrel and lap helps with this. Pull the lap through the barrel but don't pull it out of te rifling at the chamber end. Reverse and only push until it shows a half inch or so out the muzzle. Repeat, repeat, repeat, etc. You'll feel the lap get easier to push/pull. When it gets real easy, remove it, flush the bore (Brake Kleen works good at this point) and inspect. You may have to repeat the process up to four times or so, making new laps each time as the lead wears down. You don't want the lap to wear to the point where it jumps the rifling or doesn't follow exactly. Your 600 grit will be OK for the first one or two "laps" but when you make your third you should use finer stuff like 800 grit and you want a grit for finish that will break down rather than the hard stuff. In the end you're looking for polishing rather than scrubbing metal.
_________________ "I've learned from the Dog that an afternoon nap is a good thing"
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"For he to-day that sheds his blood with me Shall be my brother" - William Shakespeare
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Mon Dec 05, 2016 9:15 am |
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dreadi
Site Supporter / FFL Dealer
Location: Tacoma, Washington Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2014 Posts: 8411
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Are you suggesting to lap the entire bore using lead or just the breach end? I'm going to make some coffee and read this again for the fourth time.
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Mon Dec 05, 2016 10:37 am |
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Sinus211
Site Moderator
Location: Marysville Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2012 Posts: 13535
Real Name: Mike
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Have you considered shooting it before all the additional work to make sure it's doing what you want? Hate to see you do all that work just to go back to the drawing board if accuracy is inconsistent
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Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:01 am |
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