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It is currently Fri Apr 19, 2024 3:53 am
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Hornady LNL AP Shell Plate & Hopper Issues
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MadPick
Site Admin
Location: Renton, WA Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 Posts: 52035
Real Name: Steve
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A couple of random bits that I thought I'd throw into this thread . . . . First, the powder hopper for the Hornady LNL AP is known for getting discolored from powder. Leave powder in the hopper overnight, or just spend a lot of time reloading, and the once-clear hopper will get dark. Well, I've done both -- I've loaded almost 70,000 rounds with this press, and I've left powder in it a number of times. I finally decided that enough was enough, and called Hornady. As usual, they were champs with the customer service and they sent me a new hopper at no charge. Here's the new one next to the original: It will be nice to be able to see the powder level again! On another note, I have a bunch of shell plates for this press and I have a problem that is really bad with some shell plates, not a problem at all with others, and an irritation for those in between. When I tighten the bolt for the shell plate, it causes the shell plate to rub against the sub plate, which makes it hard to operate the press and also keeps the shell plate from snapping into the correct position under the dies. I bought a #40 shell plate recently to load 50AE, and this one is the worst one yet -- I can't even hand-tighten the bolt. The best I can do is turn the bolt just until it makes contact with the lock washer; any more, and the shell plate won't turn properly. This means that the bolt loosens up very quickly, so I need to keep "tightening" it every couple of minutes. I tried the trick of pushing the little ball bearings lower with a hammer and punch, but it doesn't help. Here's where the problem occurs: Well, I had an arbor shim set sitting on the bench, so today I tried putting a thin washer under the shell plate: With this, I was able to tighten down the shell plate much more than I could before, and I was still able to turn the shell plate. So . . . possible solution here . . . I cranked the empty press a number of times, but I didn't actually do any loading yet. But I'm optimistic.
_________________SteveBenefactor Life Member, National Rifle AssociationLife Member, Second Amendment FoundationPatriot & Life Member, Gun Owners of AmericaLife Member, Citizens Committee for the Right to Keep and Bear ArmsLegal Action Supporter, Firearms Policy CoalitionMember, NAGR/NFGRPlease support the organizations that support all of us.Leave it cleaner than you found it.
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Sat Aug 12, 2017 2:45 pm |
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usrifle
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Location: RENTON Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 Posts: 20771
Real Name: John
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70,000 rounds?? You ARE an Animal.
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Sat Aug 12, 2017 2:47 pm |
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Blaze.45
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Location: Auburn/Kent/Renton Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2011 Posts: 766
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The only probs I have with the 9mm and .45 plates I use is that I'll lightly torque them down and a few hundred rounds later the bolt will loosen by itself and the assembly pops loose. Just an annoyance really.
I see you have what looks like a case feeder, any info on that? Worth it? I was thinking about getting one but the damn assembly is massive.
_________________ Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same. - Ronald ReaganNRA Certified RSOSAF/NRA Life Member
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Sun Aug 13, 2017 9:41 am |
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MadPick
Site Admin
Location: Renton, WA Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 Posts: 52035
Real Name: Steve
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Blaze.45 wrote: I see you have what looks like a case feeder, any info on that? Worth it? I was thinking about getting one but the damn assembly is massive. Yes, I have the Hornady case feeder. I held off for a long time. "I don't need a damned case feeder, and I sure as hell don't need a bullet feeder." Well, I finally caved in and got the case feeder, and I really like it -- it really cuts down on the manual labor during loading. I can keep one hand cranking the press, and the other feeding bullets. It's not a perfect product; it takes some tweaking, and I have a few aftermarket parts to help. If I'm doing 100 rounds or less (roughly), I won't bother setting it up. But if I'm going to do a big run, I'll set it up and it makes a big difference. I'm STILL convinced that I don't need a damn bullet feeder, though.
_________________SteveBenefactor Life Member, National Rifle AssociationLife Member, Second Amendment FoundationPatriot & Life Member, Gun Owners of AmericaLife Member, Citizens Committee for the Right to Keep and Bear ArmsLegal Action Supporter, Firearms Policy CoalitionMember, NAGR/NFGRPlease support the organizations that support all of us.Leave it cleaner than you found it.
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Sun Aug 13, 2017 10:14 am |
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GeekWithGuns
Site Supporter
Location: Round Rock, TX Joined: Thu Mar 5, 2015 Posts: 3899
Real Name: Dave
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Thanks Steve for the post. Great info.
How did you happen to figure out the arbor shim set trick?
BTW agree with the prior poster, that is a lot of mileage on the press.
I've been thinking to get a case feeder and maybe a bullet feeder for 9mm and 38 special loads. The main thing holding me back is the alimony payments lol. Down the road sometime. One thing I really like about the base press is reloading in peace and quiet.
How loud is the case feeder?
_________________ There are dead horses yet to be slain.... - NWGunner
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Sun Aug 13, 2017 10:49 am |
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MadPick
Site Admin
Location: Renton, WA Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 Posts: 52035
Real Name: Steve
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GeekWithGuns wrote: How did you happen to figure out the arbor shim set trick? I bought the arbor shim set after reading threads like this one: https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=468481Of course, I bought the shims without really understanding WTF they were for . . . and as it turns out, I think my problem is just the opposite of the one that the arbor shims are fixing. They are intended to go under the sub-plate, to bring it up relative to the center drive shaft. In my case, I think the sub-plate is already too high relative to the drive shaft. But . . . the shims, when installed as intended by the thread link above, are just right because the inner diameter is larger than the drive shaft. For what I want, that's also a good thing because they won't interfere with the engagement of the shell plate with the drive shaft. So, I guess you can say I just got lucky. GeekWithGuns wrote: How loud is the case feeder? Well, I'm not sure how to objectively answer that . . . but yeah, it causes a bit of a racket. Maybe the case feeder itself isn't that loud, but you get brass tumbling inside it. The good new is that it only runs after every 1-2 cranks of the press handle, and it only runs briefly, just enough to drop another 1-2 cases into the tube. It would be irritating if you had someone else in the same room trying to watch TV, or if you were listening to talk radio, or something like that. For me, it's not a big deal -- if I'm listening to anything, it's just music and a little interruptus isn't the end of the world.
_________________SteveBenefactor Life Member, National Rifle AssociationLife Member, Second Amendment FoundationPatriot & Life Member, Gun Owners of AmericaLife Member, Citizens Committee for the Right to Keep and Bear ArmsLegal Action Supporter, Firearms Policy CoalitionMember, NAGR/NFGRPlease support the organizations that support all of us.Leave it cleaner than you found it.
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Sun Aug 13, 2017 12:26 pm |
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GeekWithGuns
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Location: Round Rock, TX Joined: Thu Mar 5, 2015 Posts: 3899
Real Name: Dave
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MadPick wrote: GeekWithGuns wrote: How did you happen to figure out the arbor shim set trick? I bought the arbor shim set after reading threads like this one: https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=468481Of course, I bought the shims without really understanding WTF they were for . . . and as it turns out, I think my problem is just the opposite of the one that the arbor shims are fixing. They are intended to go under the sub-plate, to bring it up relative to the center drive shaft. In my case, I think the sub-plate is already too high relative to the drive shaft. But . . . the shims, when installed as intended by the thread link above, are just right because the inner diameter is larger than the drive shaft. For what I want, that's also a good thing because they won't interfere with the engagement of the shell plate with the drive shaft. So, I guess you can say I just got lucky. GeekWithGuns wrote: How loud is the case feeder? Well, I'm not sure how to objectively answer that . . . but yeah, it causes a bit of a racket. Maybe the case feeder itself isn't that loud, but you get brass tumbling inside it. The good new is that it only runs after every 1-2 cranks of the press handle, and it only runs briefly, just enough to drop another 1-2 cases into the tube. It would be irritating if you had someone else in the same room trying to watch TV, or if you were listening to talk radio, or something like that. For me, it's not a big deal -- if I'm listening to anything, it's just music and a little interruptus isn't the end of the world. Thanks Steve helpful thread. I'll try ordering some arbor shims as I frequently have quite a bit of drag rotating the shellplate for 38 Special rounds. Seems to especially hang up just before ejecting the finished round into the hopper. Pretty cheap outlay for potentially very helpful fix. Case feeder noise doesn't sound too bad especially if it's just an intermittent thing. Might have to put a case feeder on the wish list for next bonus :)
_________________ There are dead horses yet to be slain.... - NWGunner
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Sun Aug 13, 2017 12:32 pm |
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MadPick
Site Admin
Location: Renton, WA Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 Posts: 52035
Real Name: Steve
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GeekWithGuns wrote: I'll try ordering some arbor shims as I frequently have quite a bit of drag rotating the shellplate for 38 Special rounds. Seems to especially hang up just before ejecting the finished round into the hopper. Pretty cheap outlay for potentially very helpful fix. Yes, who know, maybe it will help. As for the round hanging up as it gets ejected, I wonder if the shim might make it worse . . . seems like the higher the round, the more likely it is to wedge on top of the ejector thingy. Who knows. Give it a go.
_________________SteveBenefactor Life Member, National Rifle AssociationLife Member, Second Amendment FoundationPatriot & Life Member, Gun Owners of AmericaLife Member, Citizens Committee for the Right to Keep and Bear ArmsLegal Action Supporter, Firearms Policy CoalitionMember, NAGR/NFGRPlease support the organizations that support all of us.Leave it cleaner than you found it.
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Sun Aug 13, 2017 12:58 pm |
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MadPick
Site Admin
Location: Renton, WA Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 Posts: 52035
Real Name: Steve
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Oh wait . . . my post above was referring to MY arbor shim fix. The one in the link I referenced might help your situation, though.
_________________SteveBenefactor Life Member, National Rifle AssociationLife Member, Second Amendment FoundationPatriot & Life Member, Gun Owners of AmericaLife Member, Citizens Committee for the Right to Keep and Bear ArmsLegal Action Supporter, Firearms Policy CoalitionMember, NAGR/NFGRPlease support the organizations that support all of us.Leave it cleaner than you found it.
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Sun Aug 13, 2017 12:59 pm |
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Old Growth
Site Supporter
Location: Nisqually Valley Joined: Wed Oct 5, 2016 Posts: 4834
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GeekWithGuns wrote: Seems to especially hang up just before ejecting the finished round into the hopper. Is your spring/band thingy dipped down in the eject area? Or is it wound the same all the way around the bottom edge of the plate? When I first used mine I put the ring/spring on around the whole bottom edge the same and it would hang up on the eject. Then I realized that it was supposed to be poked under the plate in the eject section/area to let the finished round fall into the hopper.
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Sun Aug 13, 2017 5:11 pm |
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Duke EB
Site Supporter
Location: maple valley Joined: Mon May 6, 2013 Posts: 2575
Real Name: Earl
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My powder hopper is the exact same. I ordered a new one from midway, plus a die maintenance kit and a few other items for it. I have the case feeder, but I haven't set it up. I may have to try it. I really need to adjust my pawls before that though.
GWG, I have a problem like that sometimes too. I haven't really figured it out yet.
Last edited by Duke EB on Sun Aug 13, 2017 6:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Sun Aug 13, 2017 6:11 pm |
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MadPick
Site Admin
Location: Renton, WA Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 Posts: 52035
Real Name: Steve
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A'ight, that settles it . . . we need a thread dedicated to LNL tricks. Working on it. :)
_________________SteveBenefactor Life Member, National Rifle AssociationLife Member, Second Amendment FoundationPatriot & Life Member, Gun Owners of AmericaLife Member, Citizens Committee for the Right to Keep and Bear ArmsLegal Action Supporter, Firearms Policy CoalitionMember, NAGR/NFGRPlease support the organizations that support all of us.Leave it cleaner than you found it.
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Sun Aug 13, 2017 6:16 pm |
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lamrith
Site Supporter
Location: Tacoma/Puyallup Joined: Tue May 8, 2012 Posts: 4340
Real Name: Larry
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Blaze.45 wrote: The only probs I have with the 9mm and .45 plates I use is that I'll lightly torque them down and a few hundred rounds later the bolt will loosen by itself and the assembly pops loose. Just an annoyance really.
I see you have what looks like a case feeder, any info on that? Worth it? I was thinking about getting one but the damn assembly is massive. I will agree with Steve (That asshole made me buy a LnL and I still owe him for it.) I came from a Lee press with case feeder and missed it bigtime. The LnL setup is not cheap, and have to buy a shell plate for each round type (large pistol, small pistol, large rifle, small rifle) but once you have them it is awesome to use. It is a bit noisey when it runs too, all sorts of tricks I have seen to help dampen the sound for that. I have also added bullet feeders this year for 9mm and 45acp. I went cheap and just the feeder dies from Hornady and alum tubes, no electric feeder, but it still helps a bunch once setup it really speeds things up. I may make jump and buy a 30cal and/or 223 from mr bullet feeder eventually as well.
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Sun Aug 13, 2017 6:37 pm |
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GeekWithGuns
Site Supporter
Location: Round Rock, TX Joined: Thu Mar 5, 2015 Posts: 3899
Real Name: Dave
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Old Growth wrote: GeekWithGuns wrote: Seems to especially hang up just before ejecting the finished round into the hopper. Is your spring/band thingy dipped down in the eject area? Or is it wound the same all the way around the bottom edge of the plate? When I first used mine I put the ring/spring on around the whole bottom edge the same and it would hang up on the eject. Then I realized that it was supposed to be poked under the plate in the eject section/area to let the finished round fall into the hopper. Thanks OG will check the spring placement.
_________________ There are dead horses yet to be slain.... - NWGunner
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Mon Aug 14, 2017 2:58 am |
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MadPick
Site Admin
Location: Renton, WA Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 Posts: 52035
Real Name: Steve
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All right, I tried some loading the other day with the shim above the sub-plate . . . it didn't seem to work. So, I'm throwing this potential solution in the trash.
_________________SteveBenefactor Life Member, National Rifle AssociationLife Member, Second Amendment FoundationPatriot & Life Member, Gun Owners of AmericaLife Member, Citizens Committee for the Right to Keep and Bear ArmsLegal Action Supporter, Firearms Policy CoalitionMember, NAGR/NFGRPlease support the organizations that support all of us.Leave it cleaner than you found it.
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Sat Aug 26, 2017 5:06 pm |
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