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 Reloading 9mm Shotshells 
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MadPick wrote:
Hmmm, I wonder if there's any caliber that would work in the 9mm revolver with a longer case . . . like .38 Super, or something like that?

Creative thinking. I like it! :thumbsup2:

Yondering wrote:
MadPick wrote:
sinus211 wrote:
Is it breaking a lot more often with the 9mm than the 38spl? It just seems like a lot of the pill (shotshell case) is unsupported by the brass with the 9mm. That much unsupported weight outside the case seems like it would be more prone to breaking. Maybe you could find a shorter pill to load in the 9mm cases so it's not sticking out quite so far from the brass? Or just trim some material off the pills you have to make them shorter?


The 9mm broke at the case mouth. With the .38 today, we had a couple where the blue container just pulled out of the case. That's why I think a little more crimp would help on the .38, but on the 9mm it's a balancing act because as you say there's a lot of weight hanging out the front.


Have you tried gluing the shot capsules in place instead of crimping? That should help that particular issue.


This sounds like a pretty good idea to me. Super glue is very thin and shouldn't impede the seating process. Also you won't have to worry about harming the structural integrity of the pill with an overly aggressive crimp.

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Sat May 06, 2017 10:22 pm
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Upon further reflection in a hot shower last night, I don't think the .38 Super(ish) idea will work, as the cases headspace off the case mouth in the cylinder. Thus, any longer case will simply stick out the back.

Gluing the capsules in place would probably work nicely ... but I'm hesitant to mess around with that, as I don't know how strong the glue is and how much it would increase pressure upon firing.

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Sun May 07, 2017 7:43 am
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Even if you could somehow permanently bond the capsule to the case, it still couldn't increase resistance to the level of a normal solid bullet - it'll just blow the shot out of the capsule. Gluing them in can work very well, and really is a better solution to the problem you're having.

Either that or make your own long cases from 5.56 and figure out how to size a shoulder in them to fit the chamber. You'd skip the shot capsules in that case, and just use card wads.


Sun May 07, 2017 2:28 pm
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For an example of what I mean by making longer cases from 5.56 - these in the pic are for a 460 S&W revolver, but made using longer 444 Marlin brass. Note the stepped down part at the front - it basically mimics the shape of a bullet and the step is at the same place that normal brass stops, so it allows the long brass to chamber in the cylinder. In your case, with 9mm, I suspect you can have a lot more stepped down case in front of a standard 9mm, to hold more shot. Just depends on the cylinder length.

Anyway, that's probably more involved than you want to go, but thought I'd put it out there as more food for thought.

Image

As a side note - as you can see, those cases are annealed much more than normal; that's intentional because the case mouths get worked so much between firing and loading. Also note the fingerprint burned in to one of them - that's what happens when you're dumb and try to pick up the hot case you just annealed, instead of another cold one. :cussing:


Sun May 07, 2017 8:53 pm
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That's funny that you captured the fingerprint!

Are you saying that you over-annealed those? Took them to a higher temperature than normal, so the case mouths are now soft and pliable?

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Mon May 08, 2017 5:47 am
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Yes, correct. With normal brass rifle cases, you don't want to take all the hardness out of the brass, so you don't heat it as much. For those shotshells though, I wanted to take the cartridge brass back as soft as it would go, so I heated them more. I still get split necks if I don't anneal every couple firings.


Mon May 08, 2017 4:22 pm
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Yondering wrote:
For an example of what I mean by making longer cases from 5.56 - these in the pic are for a 460 S&W revolver, but made using longer 444 Marlin brass. Note the stepped down part at the front - it basically mimics the shape of a bullet <snip>
Anyway, that's probably more involved than you want to go, but thought I'd put it out there as more food for thought.

I -love- this stuff. Thanks for sharing the info.
Yondering wrote:
As a side note - as you can see, those cases are annealed much more than normal; that's intentional because the case mouths get worked so much between firing and loading.

The case mouths get worked so much because of the stepped area? Or is there another reason?
Yondering wrote:
Also note the fingerprint burned in to one of them - that's what happens when you're dumb and try to pick up the hot case you just annealed, instead of another cold one. :cussing:

:rofl9:
Don't leave that one at a crime scene.


Mon May 08, 2017 5:15 pm
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PMB wrote:
The case mouths get worked so much because of the stepped area? Or is there another reason?


Not so much the stepped area, but at the case mouth where it's formed/crimped into a partial ball shape. That part straightens out on firing, and then is crimped again for the next load.

That shape is formed by a set of RCBS 45 Auto shotshell dies BTW; kind of a rare oddball thing but you can still find them occasionally. They are designed to use with shortened 308 brass, and form that ball nose so the shotshells will feed and cycle a semi-auto, like a 1911. CCI's 40 S&W and 45 Auto shotshells are formed the same way but from aluminum cases, and they cycle semi-autos too. I've used them on a few snakes with good results, and they're fun for shooting clays if you don't tell your buddies they are shotshells. :cheers2:


Tue May 09, 2017 7:23 pm
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Where do I find the shotshell capsules? I-net search gave me nothing.


Fri Jul 28, 2023 6:48 pm
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dar_43 wrote:
Where do I find the shotshell capsules? I-net search gave me nothing.


Welcome to WaGuns!

See my very first post in this thread; I used .38/.357 capsules for the 9mm rounds. You can find .38/.357 out there, including: https://coastalfirearmshop.com/product/ ... box-of-50/

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Sat Jul 29, 2023 8:10 am
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