Resizing .308 brass

[MadPick]

I just like handling clean brass better.

Agreed.

I run my dirty brass in the vibratory tumbler with corncob for 15-30 minutes . . . just a quick tumble to get the major grime off. It isn't "pretty" when it comes out, but it's fairly clean.

After I size it, I give it the full Wash 'n' Wax treatment with the stainless steel tumbler so I can get those brass Glamour Shots. I don't want to bother with stainless steel tumbling and drying twice in the process, though.

[lamrith]

sort of my logic behind the two step sizing, is it allows the brass to move more while working it less.

Yeah, I understand the two-step sizing . . . basically just doing it a little at a time. However, it seems like you could skip the trimming after the first sizing, and just trim after the second sizing.

Just brainstorming here.

Could also possible cut out the second cleaning and lubing step. Put in a progressive press and do it in one pass then swage and trim...

[dagamore]

sort of my logic behind the two step sizing, is it allows the brass to move more while working it less.

Yeah, I understand the two-step sizing . . . basically just doing it a little at a time. However, it seems like you could skip the trimming after the first sizing, and just trim after the second sizing.

Just brainstorming here.

Could also possible cut out the second cleaning and lubing step. Put in a progressive press and do it in one pass then swage and trim...

moving to something like a Dillion 1050 would be nice, but I am just working with an older Rock Chucker for now.

[deadshot2]

That is one hell of a lot of work.

Let me just ask:

- Why do the universal deprime step? Why not just deprime with the first full-length sizing die? You have another tumbling step later anyhow, so the primer pockets will still get clean.
- Why trim after the first sizing? Why not just wait until after your final sizing?

I picked up a Frankford Arsenal Hand de-priming tool and pop the primers out before I do any other work. If they come out too easy the case just gets discarded with no further work.

As for multiple sizing steps, for brass I load on my 650, just one. If I needed a Small Base Die it would be the only one I'd use. No real need to "two step" sizing process unless you just like the extra work.

For precision shooting ammo I only neck size but I can get away with that in a bolt action. Not much trimming required when neck sizing only but when I do trim I do it last. Any sizing step, especially full length, tends to alter the length of the case. That brass that's squeezed in has to go somewhere and it's usually out toward the case mouth.

[MadPick]

moving to something like a Dillion 1050 would be nice, but I am just working with an older Rock Chucker for now.

You may be the craftsman type, and maybe you enjoy the step-by-step process. But if you're like me and always looking to make it just a little easier (up to a point), then consider getting some kind of progressive press that will auto-rotate and eject.

The video below is me, just a few minutes ago, sizing this .308 brass that we've been discussing. This is Lake City .308 brass straight from the military range; at this point it has been tumbled in corncob for 30 minutes (it was filthy when I got it), and lubed with the homemade alcohol/lanolin spray. I'm using the Lee die and a Hornady LNL progressive press.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-Ak-T1kqjM

As you can see, it goes pretty fast. After this, my next steps will be:
- Four hours in the stainless steel tumbler
- Swage with Dillon 600 Super Swage
- Trim/chamfer/deburr (one step) with the Giraud trimmer.

It will be beauty brass when I'm done.

If you need to do both resizing steps (two different dies), you could do that in the progressive press. You could even continue to use the universal decapping die if you want; you could have the decapper in station 1, the regular sizing die in station 2, and the small-base die in station 3. Yes, you'd lose some of the "press feel" by doing all of that at once, but you could do it.

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you try that, make sure you remove the decapping pins from the dies that are anywhere but station 1. If you don't, you'll break the pin, bend the rod, and leave a nasty mark on your press. Trust me on this one.

[dagamore]

I do love the zen type feeling that I get from doing my brass the way i do them, and hey if it that press works for you, and you get happy brass, rock on.

I do tend to over think things, and I do tend to over engineer them, I bet it comes from me working in IT, where I have to build step by steps instructions for idiots.

I know my answer is not the only one, but I bet it would work for everyone. :D

and I was taught reloading by a multi world record holder, so a lot of the things I do most people would never need to do. Like how many people turn the round three times about 120° each time, to make sure the bullet is centered?

I have a buddy in South Carolina, that gets the military MG brass and does about what you do, he uses a 650, and he loves his results, i tend to be a touch more picky about the brass, then again he wont touch brass that has been shot in an FAL/HK fluted chamber, where as I will take that brass all day long.

[MadPick]

Like how many people turn the round three times about 120° each time, to make sure the bullet is centered?

Not in!



Haha . . . but seriously, I can respect your method.

[dagamore]

Like how many people turn the round three times about 120° each time, to make sure the bullet is centered?

Not in!



Haha . . . but seriously, I can respect your method.

Same here mate. I know a few people that just run it down a 650 and call it good, don't trickle the charges, don't segregate the brass by volume/weight, and still get great shooting ammo.

Way too many ways to skin this cat.

[lamrith]

Like how many people turn the round three times about 120° each time, to make sure the bullet is centered?

Not in!



Haha . . . but seriously, I can respect your method.

Same here mate. I know a few people that just run it down a 650 and call it good, don't trickle the charges, don't segregate the brass by volume/weight, and still get great shooting ammo.

Way too many ways to skin this cat.

WHOAAAA.... Where's the disclaimer so the PETArds don't come after us??
"No cat were harmed in the submission of Dagamore's post..."

To true though, lots of ways to reload, I know the double sizing, trimming/SS media cleaning is way more than I would want to do unless I was routinely shooting long range precision.

[PMB]

The video below is me, just a few minutes ago, sizing this .308 brass that we've been discussing.


It will be beauty brass when I'm done.

So manly hands... I put that short vid on repeat so can watch for hours.

[MadPick]

The video below is me, just a few minutes ago, sizing this .308 brass that we've been discussing.


It will be beauty brass when I'm done.

So manly hands... I put that short vid on repeat so can watch for hours.

Aha! New subscriber identified.

[dogfish]

Machine gun brass is pretty apparent when you start processing it. That is what you experienced with the LC brass.

My guess is that the Lee die is effectively a small base die. Anything that gets fed into one of my autoloaders goes through a small base die.

Also, all I use in the alcohol/lanolin liquid spray lubes. Stopped using Hornady 1 shot long ago. One tip on the clean-up for the lanolin lube, get a gallon ziplock bag, toss in some brass, a few hundred, then pour in a few ounces of denatured alcohol. Strips the remaining lube right off. Remove the cases from the bag, leaving the alcohol in the bag, then add more brass, and if needed some more alcohol. Place the removed brass on some paper towels to dry out. The alcohol evaporates quickly. From there finish your brass prep and then do a polish tumble, prime and store.

No need to 'wash' the brass in alcohol if you clean sized brass in SS Pin media.

Not set up for stainless pin tumbling. Therefore my method is different than yours.

[deadshot2]

and I was taught reloading by a multi world record holder, so a lot of the things I do most people would never need to do. Like how many people turn the round three times about 120° each time, to make sure the bullet is centered?

I used to when using inexpensive, entry level dies to seat bullets. Now I seat using competition dies that use a sliding chamber to hold the case and a close tolerance "guide" that holds the bullet. No need to rotate and seat in steps.

Of these dies I prefer the Redding Competition seating die as it's built to the closest tolerances. BWIW, most BR shooters use Wilson Dies that work the same, just need an arbor press to seat the bullets.

[deadshot2]

Not set up for stainless pin tumbling.

Once you try it you won't go back.


Check out the Frankford Arsenal Rotary Tumbler (FART ) $185 gives you a complete setup including pins. Just add dishwash detergent and Lemi-Shine. The drum will hold up to 1,000 pieces of .223 brass and about half that in .308.

The large quantities will most likely require more pins but those can be purchased online from http://pelletsllc.com/ for less $$ per pound.

Like I said, you'll never go back. One setup and you get clean, bright, cases inside, out, and primer pockets as well.

[dogfish]

I don't shoot competitions and I can tumble brass quicker from beginning to end using my current method. One buddy has the steel pins set up, and his brass is shiny. My groups are as good or better than his, all sub 0.5" at 100 and consistent out to 600. An elk will only be so dead.