WaGuns.org :: View topic - Making a Mauser Scout

dreadi wrote:

Hmmm.
If the holes in rear aren't parallel then yes, but, it's not tapped. The mount uses the original holes for the rear leaf sight pin.

dreadi wrote:

A couple things.

1. Parallax. For this scope it's set to 100 yards and I've been shooting at 50. I wonder if I'm experiencing enough to have me shooting way off.

Supposing I don't,
2. What does 1/4 MOA equal to in inches? Well that depends on your target distance right? I'm trying to understand how much movement I need to make from shims to get the scope on point. I stacked up .008" in machine stock and put it at the bottom of the rear ring and another .008" stack on the right side of the front ring. Both stacks are between the ring and scope.

dreadi wrote:

No parallax knob on this scope.

So I need to figure how many thousandths of an inch are in 1/8 MOA?

dreadi wrote:

Yes, I shimmed it and bore sighted it, then shot it. It took me three or four times to get it right but, it's better.
Sagela suggested a method for correction that would have taken just one shot but, I didn't have enough MOA left in the turrets. Even with them turned max I was 7" away from center. I suspect that mount is machined fine but, the rifle is likely not square. Even to get the reticle level I use three levels because the receiver is not flat or square where the magnet goes.

dreadi wrote:

Yes, it is.

How do you know yours is better?

Author:	dreadi [ Wed Apr 05, 2017 7:47 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Making a Mauser Scout
Hmmm. If the holes in rear aren't parallel then yes, but, it's not tapped. The mount uses the original holes for the rear leaf sight pin.

Author:	usrifle [ Wed Apr 05, 2017 7:58 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Making a Mauser Scout
dreadi wrote: Hmmm. If the holes in rear aren't parallel then yes, but, it's not tapped. The mount uses the original holes for the rear leaf sight pin. Rigid holes, windeage was in the front sight originally so minor alignment wouldn't matter. Not to mention the aftermarket sight base may be off.

Author:	dreadi [ Sat Apr 08, 2017 6:59 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Making a Mauser Scout
A couple things. 1. Parallax. For this scope it's set to 100 yards and I've been shooting at 50. I wonder if I'm experiencing enough to have me shooting way off. Supposing I don't, 2. What does 1/4 MOA equal to in inches? Well that depends on your target distance right? I'm trying to understand how much movement I need to make from shims to get the scope on point. I stacked up .008" in machine stock and put it at the bottom of the rear ring and another .008" stack on the right side of the front ring. Both stacks are between the ring and scope.

Author:	MadPick [ Sat Apr 08, 2017 7:03 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Making a Mauser Scout
dreadi wrote: A couple things. 1. Parallax. For this scope it's set to 100 yards and I've been shooting at 50. I wonder if I'm experiencing enough to have me shooting way off. Supposing I don't, 2. What does 1/4 MOA equal to in inches? Well that depends on your target distance right? I'm trying to understand how much movement I need to make from shims to get the scope on point. I stacked up .008" in machine stock and put it at the bottom of the rear ring and another .008" stack on the right side of the front ring. Both stacks are between the ring and scope. 1. Use the parallax knob as a focus knob. Turn it until the target is sharp, then you're good. Don't worry about what distance is displayed on the knob. 2. One MOA is roughly one inch at 100 yards, so go from there. 1/4 MOA is 1/4 inch at 100 yards, 1/8 inch at 50 yards, 1/16 inch at 25 yards.

Author:	dreadi [ Sat Apr 08, 2017 7:39 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Making a Mauser Scout
No parallax knob on this scope. So I need to figure how many thousandths of an inch are in 1/8 MOA?

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Making a Mauser Scout https://www.waguns.org/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=75737	Page 6 of 7

Author:	jdhbulseye [ Sun Apr 09, 2017 2:42 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Making a Mauser Scout
dreadi wrote: No parallax knob on this scope. So I need to figure how many thousandths of an inch are in 1/8 MOA? 1 MOA = 1.047" @ 100yds 1/8 MOA = 0.130875" @ 100yds so @ 50yds its 0.0654375" Basically 65 thousandths

Author:	SAGELA [ Sun Apr 09, 2017 5:49 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Making a Mauser Scout
Dana, can you bring the project by the shop Monday morning? I'll bring my Swede scout for comparison. Maybe we both learn something. Reply by email so I'm sure to get the answer.

Author:	dreadi [ Sat Apr 15, 2017 10:46 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Making a Mauser Scout
Shimmy shimmy yaw.... Finally got on paper at 100yds. I have a variety of brass and it all produced different speeds but, PPU appeared to be the most consistent. The barrel seems to heat up real fast and throw a flyer or two, but some more testing should clear this up. While they are not wonderful shots, it's good to know that I can get it right in the middle at 100yds on a cold barrel.

Author:	usrifle [ Sat Apr 15, 2017 11:37 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Making a Mauser Scout
So what caused the original issues? Did you shim it?

Author:	dreadi [ Sun Apr 16, 2017 6:58 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Making a Mauser Scout
Yes, I shimmed it and bore sighted it, then shot it. It took me three or four times to get it right but, it's better. Sagela suggested a method for correction that would have taken just one shot but, I didn't have enough MOA left in the turrets. Even with them turned max I was 7" away from center. I suspect that mount is machined fine but, the rifle is likely not square. Even to get the reticle level I use three levels because the receiver is not flat or square where the magnet goes.

Author:	dreadi [ Sun Jun 04, 2017 10:44 pm ]
Post subject:	Making a Mauser Scout
I'm happy to report that I've got it ringing 8" round steel plate at 100yds and used some Kentucky elevation to hit a 6"x12" steel at 200yds. Oh happy day. Out of the variety of brass I have for 7mmx57mm, the PPU is the most consistent with my load.

Author:	Yondering [ Mon Jun 05, 2017 11:29 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Making a Mauser Scout
Are you sure that mount is locked down really solid? It doesn't look like the most solid or accurate attachment method, besides being a little high off the barrel too. If you decide to try a better mount, check out the XS scout mount for Mausers. http://www.xssights.com/products.aspx?CAT=8284 I built a scout rifle on a VZ-24 Mauser years ago and used this mount, it is rock solid and low profile too. You do have to remove the rear sight base from the barrel, but that's not too hard. This was a 19" featherweight barrel, chambered in 30-06.

Author:	dreadi [ Mon Jun 05, 2017 12:23 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Making a Mauser Scout
Yes, it is. How do you know yours is better?

Author:	3584ELK [ Mon Jun 05, 2017 1:55 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Making a Mauser Scout
dreadi wrote: Yes, I shimmed it and bore sighted it, then shot it. It took me three or four times to get it right but, it's better. Sagela suggested a method for correction that would have taken just one shot but, I didn't have enough MOA left in the turrets. Even with them turned max I was 7" away from center. I suspect that mount is machined fine but, the rifle is likely not square. Even to get the reticle level I use three levels because the receiver is not flat or square where the magnet goes. This suggestion comes a little late in the game, but you could use the Burris rings and inserts to get there as well. The Burris setup comes with a handy little chart to help you figure out how much adjustment you need and where to rotate the rings.http://www.burrisoptics.com/mounting-systems/rings/xtr-signature-rings

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Author:	Sinus211 [ Mon Jun 05, 2017 3:31 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Making a Mauser Scout
dreadi wrote: Yes, it is. How do you know yours is better?