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 Making a Mauser Scout 
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Thank you.

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Sun Dec 11, 2016 8:05 pm
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Old barn. New paint.
Duracoat Tactical OD Green and Tactical Coyote Brown. Trigger assembly is Combat Black.

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Last edited by dreadi on Wed Dec 21, 2016 11:48 am, edited 1 time in total.



Tue Dec 20, 2016 3:33 pm
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That is some fine work. Looking forward to the range report!


Tue Dec 20, 2016 3:40 pm
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Wow. Very NICE!

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Tue Dec 20, 2016 4:31 pm
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Thanks, guys.

I forgot to include some before photos.
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Tue Dec 20, 2016 5:22 pm
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PMB wrote:
That is some fine work. Looking forward to the range report!



Just realized that I had enough gift cards to order the scope and rings. They'll be in next week. :thumbsup2: I'll wait until the full three week cure has passed before shooting though. I'm looking forward to seeing how the bolt feels after polishing, and blasting the receiver as well

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Tue Dec 20, 2016 11:48 pm
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Dreadi - I probably missed it, but I see how you crowned your barrel - by hand. How did you deburr the bore at the cut? Just by hand? Close ups?

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Wed Dec 21, 2016 4:48 am
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Pablo wrote:
Dreadi - I probably missed it, but I see how you crowned your barrel - by hand. How did you deburr the bore at the cut? Just by hand? Close ups?
I used a conical brass tip chucked in a drill and 600 diamond lapping compound. Just a few seconds at a low speed. I'll see if I can get a macro shot of it.

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Wed Dec 21, 2016 7:16 am
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Nice work, sir. You could give lessons to some of the 'gunsmiths' that charge for their shitty work. I am really curious how it shoots, and did you decide to lap the bore before your first range trip? I am curious what affect that might have.

Well done.

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Wed Dec 21, 2016 8:25 am
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3584ELK wrote:
Nice work, sir. You could give lessons to some of the 'gunsmiths' that charge for their shitty work. I am really curious how it shoots, and did you decide to lap the bore before your first range trip? I am curious what affect that might have.

Well done.



Thank you! I'd like to open for business in the future. I haven't lapped the bore as prescribed earlier in the thread. After crowning I did run quite a few patches of J-B Bore Cleaning Compound as directed on the jar with Kroil. These were the materials I had on hand and made sense to start there. If needed, I will lap the bore as prescribed earlier. The rifle has not been shot since completing this work. Crowning was done ten days ago and the Duracoat was applied just four days ago.

One part of the job I didn't include earlier was to fill in the pits and scratches on the stock. Lauer Weaponry make a product called DuraFil that is applied somewhat similar to Duracoat. They say you can use it on metal, wood, and plastic. I considered using wood filler or Bondo product but, decided to use the DuraFil just to take some of the guess work out of the equation. The prep work included degreasing, sanding, and blowing it with compressed air. After applying DuraFil and allowing it to cure overnight, I sanded it again to smooth it out and again blew it with compressed air. Despite not being a completely stripped wood, I was surprised by how much product I had to use when applying the top coat. The first pass made the wood appear as if I was only spraying a mist of water. I would have preferred three coats but, ended with five due to needing to build up the coats, and due to some streaking that I later attributed to needing to reduce and/or retard the product further to allow for a wider spray from farther away. I asked the YL to look over the stock and she could not see the streaks. Either she had a poor angle or they really aren't as visible as I perceived it to be. I didn't notice them at all yesterday in the sunlight and they were only visible to me on the butt end of the stock. This was my first time coating a wood stock and I suspect a needed change application for wider areas is needed. Perhaps using a .8 instead of a .5 needle is in order.

Before prep and after prep. The grey stuff is the DuraFil after sanding.

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This was also my first time applying Duracoat to steel. They make a prep product specifically for bare steel but, I didn't want to add to the costs already amounting. Perhaps another time. Perhaps that's partly why I used over half a 4oz bottle to coat the barreled action and small parts except for the trigger group. Just like the stock, the barreled action and small parts appeared to have a mist of water sprayed on them with the first pass. I was aware that the Duracoat instructions say that a few layers may be needed on a parkerized surface to fill the pours and I kept that in mind as I continued to apply layers. All parts, including the screws were blasted and coated. They advertise that a 4oz bottle will finish one to four firearms. I believe I could finish a basic AR and one to two pistols frame with what's left over, and perhaps two slides as well.

Bare steel action.
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Wed Dec 21, 2016 9:45 am
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Wood is like that. Sometimes the effect is cool. I bomb canned an oak audio/video stand black, just because the finish was ugly and I had the paint, and the wife wanted match the decor. Damn thing got compliments all the time because the figure of the wood came through strong, popped out black.

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Wed Dec 21, 2016 11:41 am
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Pablo wrote:
Wood is like that. Sometimes the effect is cool. I bomb canned an oak audio/video stand black, just because the finish was ugly and I had the paint, and the wife wanted match the decor. Damn thing got compliments all the time because the figure of the wood came through strong, popped out black.

That's what I was hoping would happen with the stock. Does it look almost laminate?

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Wed Dec 21, 2016 11:47 am
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Cannot see in the pictures on my PC. Looks like polymer, and excellent color.

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Wed Dec 21, 2016 11:53 am
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Pablo wrote:
Dreadi - I probably missed it, but I see how you crowned your barrel - by hand. How did you deburr the bore at the cut? Just by hand? Close ups?
This is the best I've been able to get with an iPhone camera. Image

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Thu Dec 22, 2016 12:51 pm
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Shoot that bad boy. Might actually gain some accuracy! :bigsmile:

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Thu Dec 22, 2016 1:25 pm
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