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 Duracoat Backyard Camo 
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Last weekend I was hanging out with dogfish & son, and Fishranger, shooting, having a good time, showing off my recently finished 6.8 rifle. My Savage 10 FCP .308, just like any other woman, got jealous. "Why are you fawning all over this new girl? Your 'new deer rifle' is untested and hasn't done any real work. I've been with you for an entire year and have put meat on the table for your family and taken game for many years before you got me. When do I get a makeover? What about me, Dreadi? What about me?!" Boy did she get steaming mad! Every shot she just kept on ringing steel to prove her point and work ethic. Even when she got too hot handle, she stayed true to aim. All the while, my 6.8 was as cool as a glass of sweet iced tea on the porch over looking the tobacco fields. On the way home I got to thinking and feeling real bad. How could I just neglect my .308 like that? After all the rain we hiked in, the trek up to Alpine Lakes, the bear hunting, the elk hunting, the deer we took last year. It's a crying shame the way we do those that provide for us.

I left town the next day and thought about her all week and said, "this weekend, I'm going to take care of my .308." Having colors left over from the OCP job, a new air compressor and, a little experience, I was jumping right in upon my return. I was inspired by a listing I saw for a rifle that had a really bad coating job and the seller was asking well over a thousand dollars for his "custom rifle". I thought to myself, I can do a much better job on my sub $400 rifle. Mmalleck had been on me to do a straw camo job when ever I got around to doing coatings. It was time to do it. Using four colors, multi light beige, multi medium green, multi dark green, multi dark brown, and clear matte, I gathered some foliage from the backyard and went on.

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My .308 is much happier now and is looking forward to taking our first elk together.

I made a costume change for reference of patterns and colors comparison. A few things I learned, I don't care for ferns as a pattern. They are too big for making male and female shapes into random patterns. Also, next time I try this type of camo, I'll get some plastic foliage and hope they don't move as much as the authentic foliage and straw does when spraying. Also, I need an indoor space for this work. This outside stuff is great for ventilation but, not so great for keeping your work piece clean of debris and the medium atomizing correctly. Perhaps a darker beige as a base coat would work better and with reddish brown gradients before "stencils". Duracoat can be made with a higher sheen by adding more hardener, and with my previous project I used the least amount required. This time I wanted to try for the most matte finish possible. It's still reflective but, it's definitely less reflective than my previous project and the clear coat helped to flatten the colors.

In reality, it was approaching 90 degrees in full direct sun that day we were shooting. This previously black rifle was too hot handle and I swore, "No more black rifles!", and I really did see a listing for a "custom rifle" with a really poor coating job for well over one thousand dollars. I just had to do better.

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Last edited by dreadi on Sun Aug 28, 2016 9:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.



Sun Aug 28, 2016 9:41 pm
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Damn, it made the scope grow too! :thumbsup2:

But seriously . . . you've got talent, man. You make this shit look easy. :pray:

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Sun Aug 28, 2016 9:45 pm
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Lol....yeah....funny how that happens. The magic of Duracoat.

Thank you. I'm learning a lot about a craft I never thought I'd be into. Having failed art classes through the elementary and high school, it goes to right along with having failed Spanish 1 twice. Now I'm airbrushing guns and the YL is a fluent Spanish and English speaking Latina. I can even understand her conversations with her family. OK, back to guns.

One other thing I did in prep was to sand the stock with 220 grit oxide cloth and rough it up really good. Then I used TrueStrip and two different 3M scour pads to comparison while degreasing. I always felt that stock didn't have enough grip. I'm the kind of guy that like stocks and grips so rough they make your hands bleed.

Well one side was too rough and the other side was rough but not that rough. I had scored the polymer to point that the airbrush was pushing up little bits. After the base coat had setup a bit, I brushed the stock with 320 grit oxide cloth and grey 3M pad for "in between coats", in hopes to smooth it all out and not look as bad. You know those textile balls that group on your sweaters? Yup, looked like that but, I wasn't interested in waiting a few days before sanding it smooth and re-coat. Less rough = good. Actually I brushed the entire rifle so I could get the particles from the air smoothed out. I also spilled some Duracoat and did my best to touch it up after working the area to remove the spill. Most people will never see that area but, of course I KNOW it's the there. FYI, Duracoat will strip right off the next day with laquer thinner. I could go down right now and strip the whole thing within half hour if I wanted to. You really do need to let it cure as instructed before any rough stuff. I marred the finish on the 6.8 and installing muzzle device. I thought a week would be good enough for installing it. Nope... Next time I will leave the muzzle device attached...and the gas block.

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Sun Aug 28, 2016 10:25 pm
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Very nice....again.....as usual!

Bet being with Dogfish and his son was a hoot too.

Did you ever get your PVC fleshing beam material? Curious and very interested in that project of yours too.

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Sun Aug 28, 2016 11:07 pm
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Nice work dude. When does your shop open? :wink05:

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Mon Aug 29, 2016 5:57 am
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I enjoy these DIY threads more than any other topics.

Thanks for sharing your projects. Well done sir! :tiphat:


Mon Aug 29, 2016 6:23 am
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Awesome...again! :thumbsup2:

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Mon Aug 29, 2016 7:34 am
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Thanks, y'all.

The fleshing beam is still a work in progress. I'm going to get a wooden beam before I come up on the PVC piece. I have to get that hide out the freezer and tanned sooner than later.

About a shop.....as soon as we find a place to move so I can work from home, I'll be making definite plans for an FFL.

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Mon Aug 29, 2016 8:49 am
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Man you've done such a good job and inspired me.

I have a few guns with poor finish. How do you think duracoat would work on a CZ82? As you may know they are notorious for bad factory paint finish that has flaked off after decades. I have a few that need to be stripped down and redone. Thinking of doing them.

I have an old oven in my garage that I think I might use for "baking" some coatings on. I'm going to watch some videos and see how it might work out.

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Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:26 am
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Wow that looks great.

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Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:28 am
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Mon Aug 29, 2016 5:27 pm
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leadcounsel wrote:
Man you've done such a good job and inspired me.

I have a few guns with poor finish. How do you think duracoat would work on a CZ82? As you may know they are notorious for bad factory paint finish that has flaked off after decades. I have a few that need to be stripped down and redone. Thinking of doing them.

I have an old oven in my garage that I think I might use for "baking" some coatings on. I'm going to watch some videos and see how it might work out.

Thank you.

Duracoat has products that make it applicable for a variety of surfaces and tools. It doesn't require any baking. Unless your item is going to get over 500°F, it doesn't need to be baked on and they have a specific product for that. I'm considering DuraBake for refurbishing a wood stove.
I'm sure if you prepped correctly and applied correctly, it would be just fine. They have kits for one bangers if you just need a small amount and want to do an aerosol job.

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Tue Aug 30, 2016 11:11 am
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Nice overlays, looks really good man!

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Tue Aug 30, 2016 12:45 pm
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Thank you. I wrote up some plans for an improved method to test on a Stevens shotgun, then realized it involved six colors and a trip to Michaels and the test would cost about the half the price of the firearm. That was another indicator to why coatings have such a cost. Oh, and the prep products.

One thing I'm going to ask about is the reuse of their TrueStrip product. One vendor soaks the parts in a closed closed container for 4-6 hours after disassembly. He says acetone can be used instead but, neither of those are relatively cheap and you can't pick up TrueStrip from the hardware store. So I'm wondering, how many times can you use a vat of stripper? Until it no longer does the job like tumbler medium or looking at dish water when you decide it's too dirty to clean the dishes? Shipping large amounts of the TruStrip comes with a Hazmat fee

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Wed Aug 31, 2016 6:57 am
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