Harbor Freight* and I are gonna try this, but if there are tips/tricks involved, please share them.

What I've been told so far is:
- Use 80 grit glass bead media
- Keep the compressed air pressure around 50-60 psi
- Wear thick rubber gloves, a breathing filter, and face protection
- Keep the nozzle moving and perpendicular, just like when painting a car

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* The tinker's friend.
http://www.harborfreight.com/gravity-feed-blaster-gun-93221.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/50-lbs-80-grit-glass-bead-blast-media-30972.html

Obviously different media produces different textures. Glass bead leaves a smooth dull satin. Garnet and aluminum oxide produce a rougher/ shinier surface. Tape off anything you don't want altered. And the media gets into everything so strip it down good and clean well

I was planning to have it completely disassembled before blasting the separate parts, and reassembled after cleaning the parts.

Always welcome to use my cabinet if your down Mexico way, it's ready to go.

Air pressure 90 on mine but it's set up for bigger jobs

Before you just grab a gun part and start blasting, take a few minutes and practice on some scrap metal. Bead blasting is different than painting as the bead "stream" can be more intense in various parts of the spray and can give an uneven "finish".

Practicing ahead of time helps a lot without damaging a part you want to look good.

Good point, but I don't have any scrap stainless. Practicing on cold rolled, though, should allow me to learn about the fan shape/size and how fast/slow I need to keep the nozzle moving, right?

Also, what about number of passes (several like light coats of paint)?

And going back if I missed a spot?

When they're blasted and cleaned, should all the parts get a light coat of oil (or anything) prior to reassembly?

Thanks.

plain steel will give you a similar surface to practice on. Keeping the nozzle far enough from the piece so that the blast media has the same effect across the width of the piece isnt that hard to do

Keep in mind the media is designed to remove something (usually paint, scale, boogers etc) so once you get to the metal your mostly just conditioning the surface. Glass bead is the most forgiving and doesnt remove hardly any metal. Now garnet and alum. oxide will eat metal at a faster pace but thats the point of blasting is to minimize solid material removal.

The number of times you pass over it is of no consequense aside from getting a similar finish on all areas, its really not that hard.

blasting removes all things designed to protect metal and the oxidizing process. Stainless wont change much (depending on grade) once cleaned (blasted) but like steel its now an un protected and roughened surface so oiling will not only help protect it but make it easier to clean since oil will be the first thing into the rough surface and not dirt, dust etc.

Glass bead leaves a rather smooth surface texture compared to others but you have "roughed" it up on a near microscopic level

I use medium and fine glass beads inside a blast cabinet with dust collector going. You can mask off with electrical tape but 10mil. pipe wrap is best. Stainless is softer than hot or cold rolled steel. Remember that glass beads only peen where as any of the carbide media actually cut and remove material. If you use the carbides, try to stay away from lettering or markings you want to preserve.

from what i have done the glass beads give the best finish. other stuff is all too rough unless ur removing rust, pitting, or paint. glass bead is a nice soft satin, don't blast anything that isn't visible. and i agree the stuff gets everywhere clean it 3 times and with stainless i wouldn't do more that you usually would just light oil.

thank you

1) call TA

2) if you don't call TA start way further back than you need to and work your way closer as you get more comfortable

Quality advice.