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Real Name: Steve
I think we've had this conversation before . . . but that's a hell of a lot of work for pistol brass.

Here's what I do for pistol:

1) Wet tumble
2) Load on LnL.

:bigsmile:

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Leave it cleaner than you found it.


Tue Apr 25, 2017 6:37 pm
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Why ream pistol brass. Doan understand.

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Tue Apr 25, 2017 6:42 pm
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Dillion 550 :handload:

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Tue Apr 25, 2017 7:04 pm
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SFCRMSA wrote:
Dillion 550 :handload:


Winner! :flag:

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Tue Apr 25, 2017 8:09 pm
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I dont really need to square up the primer pockets, but some 45s seem kinda shallow once in a while.

I tried to run a batch of cases that were only cleaned not chamfered on the edges and a couple of them plowed upthe plating on the slugs. I dont know if its a plated bullet problem or a sharp case edge problem.

I tried setting the flaring die deeper and it still happened. Gave the rest a quick inside deburring and set my flaring die back shllower where I like it and all was good again.

All this normal? Or am I doing something wrong?

I loaded up 250-- .45s tonight.


Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:07 pm
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Old Growth wrote:
I dont really need to square up the primer pockets, but some 45s seem kinda shallow once in a while.

I tried to run a batch of cases that were only cleaned not chamfered on the edges and a couple of them plowed upthe plating on the slugs. I dont know if its a plated bullet problem or a sharp case edge problem.

I tried setting the flaring die deeper and it still happened. Gave the rest a quick inside deburring and set my flaring die back shllower where I like it and all was good again.

All this normal? Or am I doing something wrong?

I loaded up 250-- .45s tonight.


No. You need a tiny bell. I mean it is way more subtle than most books, but it is necessary. But something seems off.

I am wondering about these burrs. Where are they coming from?

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Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:23 pm
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You need to bell rthe case mouths more. Set up your die soe it bells the case mouths enough that you can set the bullet inside the bell. .050 should be plenty to start any kind of bullet. I do not even champher the insides of my casemouths anymore because I automaticall bell the casemouths. The edge I leave by not champhering gives me a better roll crimp and yes I roll crimp all my pistol ammunition even the rounds that headspace on the casemouth such as 9mm. It only takes .002 to do a good enough roll crimp to have consistant ignition and still be able to headspace correctly.

I have two presses an old Rockchucker that I use for small lots of pistol and all my rifle ammunition and my Lee Loadmaster that I cuss at a lot when I load large batches of 9mm, .40, .223 and necked up .223 to 6mm.

I would NOT advise a nwe reloader to purchase a Loadmaster. I wish I had purchased a Lock and Load by Hornady instead but I can make my Loadmaster work......other would not.


Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:36 pm
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sportsdad60 wrote:
Regardless of what you start with (Auto progressive or Single Stage) you will undoubtedly own both within a year or two of reloading.

Each has really good aspects depending on the reloading being done.

If you need to bang out few thousand every couple of months for IPDA, Auto Progressive for certain.

If you are a bench shooter, focused on accuracy, Single Stage.


This statement seems to be held by many here, but some claim it might not be true. I'm hoping it's not true.

Because I want to reload .308 for bench rest shooting, and a couple thousand rounds of .223/5.56 for blasting. And I really don't want to buy 2.


Thu Apr 27, 2017 7:51 am
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snozzberries wrote:
sportsdad60 wrote:
Regardless of what you start with (Auto progressive or Single Stage) you will undoubtedly own both within a year or two of reloading.

Each has really good aspects depending on the reloading being done.

If you need to bang out few thousand every couple of months for IPDA, Auto Progressive for certain.

If you are a bench shooter, focused on accuracy, Single Stage.


This statement seems to be held by many here, but some claim it might not be true. I'm hoping it's not true.

Because I want to reload .308 for bench rest shooting, and a couple thousand rounds of .223/5.56 for blasting. And I really don't want to buy 2.



I recommend getting a used single stage, dies, shell holder, analog scale, powder thrower, loading block, etc if all you want is to load one caliber for accuracy. It's cost effective for initial purchase. Unless you just want to spend the money to make loading faster and spend less time loading and more time shooting. If you really just want blasting ammo for your 5.56, just buy a case of ammo and have fun. Save your brass and sell it, buy more ammo. Even the non reloadable brass can be scrapped and get you about $60 for a five gallon bucket. I took a bucket of reloadable brass to Sages Reloading Supply before I started loading and got cash on the spot.

But don't let my single stage enthusiasm fool you. I was all excited to load my own because I saw the price of ammo for what I wanted and it was stupid high, and because a friend gave me some of his handloads that I found to be accurate and deadly. I was given used loading equipment and taught by a couple friends. My initial purchase was mostly components, tumbler, and brass trimmer. I was just loading .32-20 and .308. Now I'm up to seven calibers and regularly think, it's time for a progressive station and a RCBS Chargemaster. The amount of time I've spent measuring charges has already justified the cost of buying a Chargemaster. It was a good start, but for anyone that I know will load multiple calibers often, I would recommend start off with a progressive and Chargemaster if you have the budget. You can save a lot of time. A, lot, of, time.

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Thu Apr 27, 2017 8:28 am
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