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 Gun cleaners/ solvents 
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Guntrader wrote:
Hoppes tastes horrible too.

Had some small gun parts soaking in a glass of Hoppes, took them out and was putting a rifle back together.
Came into the kitchen as the ex wife was leaving.
Thought 'Oh, she poured me some bourbon.

Nope. HOPPES!

I assume that is why she is the ex wife? :shocked4:

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Tue Jun 14, 2016 6:45 pm
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I've used a 50/50 of carb cleaner and CLP in the past. If you let it soak overnight it works pretty good. Currently experimenting with other stuff.

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Tue Jun 14, 2016 7:44 pm
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No, I had 'poured' the Hoppes previously to soak parts in.

She was bad, just not quite THAT bad.


guncruiser wrote:
I assume that is why she is the ex wife? :shocked4:

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Tue Jun 14, 2016 7:48 pm
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guncruiser wrote:
I like MPro cleaner and copper cleaner. Non toxic.


I use the MPro cleaner and lube as well. I like it because there's no smell and my wife doesn't gripe at me when I clean my guns. Be sure to live afterward because the MPro will clean EVERYTHING off.

For copper solvent, I use Pro Shot, which is amazing stuff. It doesn't take much work for the patches to stop coming out green.

And in a pinch, I use Hoppes. Love that smell. Too bad my wife doesn't.


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Tue Jun 14, 2016 7:49 pm
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Oh yeah. And I use the Birchwood Casey Gunscrubber for the really nasty stuff. Basically it's brake cleaner. Like the MPro, gotta lube well afterward.


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Tue Jun 14, 2016 7:52 pm
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M-Pro-7 is fantastic. I've been using it for about 15 years. Works better than Hoppes without the smell.

Hoppes is ok, especially if you're going to toss your bolt group in a glass jar filled with Hoppes on your way home from the range. Or overnight.
A cheaper alternative is a 50/50 mix of kerosene and alcohol. The same thing as Hoppes without the %5 ammonia and the 5% banana oil (for the nicer smell). It won't do anything for copper, which is why there's ammonia in Hoppes... but so little it's a very slow acting copper solvent, but works great for carbon.


Tue Jun 14, 2016 11:07 pm
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Was a CLP guy for years, still love the smell of that stuff. But there are many environmentally friendly yet effective solvents available nowadays, often without the harsh smell of Hoppe's or CLP. Gradually I shifted to using separate products for solvent and lubrication.

Another vote for M-Pro 7 solvent. I use it in an ultrasonic cleaner as a bath for handguns. Works great for carbon fouling on my competition revolvers which, being stainless, I like to keep squeaky clean.

I initially thought the newer cleaners would be bullshit. After all, how can you really get shit clean without MEK, Acetone, and Tetrohydrofuran :bigsmile: But the M-Pro 7 really works.

Also use the Birchwood Casey lead removal cloth for really tough fouling on the forward face of revolver cylinders and tough spots around the frame.

I shoot almost exclusively lead bullets so won't comment on copper solvents.

For lube, I use either Slip 2000 EWL, M-Pro LPX gun oil, or Hornady Dry Lube depending on application.

Haven't tried any of the foaming bore cleaners. I find a hot ultrasonic bath in M-Pro 7 solvent followed by bore scrubbing works well. Also have J-B bore cleaner although for lead I often just repeatedly pull a brass brush wrapped with brass wool through the bore. Works like a champ.

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Wed Jun 15, 2016 3:17 pm
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I only use non-toxic stuff on my firearms and around my house.
I've found that Slip2000's Carbon Killer works best for carbon.



Wed Jun 15, 2016 8:19 pm
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Hoppes or froglube


Wed Jun 15, 2016 8:52 pm
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Gunslick foam does work well, just not on semi-auto gas operated guns.

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Wed Jun 15, 2016 10:53 pm
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Anyone used simple green for soaking? Works great on campstove parts.


Thu Jun 16, 2016 10:40 am
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quantsuff wrote:
Anyone used simple green for soaking? Works great on campstove parts.


I have used it in my ultrasonic cleaner in a pinch. Works fine. Don't care for the smell.

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Thu Jun 16, 2016 5:04 pm
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Slip 2000 if you don't mind soaking for a long time and still have some minor scraping to do. Same for Kroil but good luck keeping Kroil in the can once you open it. That stuff will creep up and out like nothing I've ever seen. Leave a can on the shelf and a week later there's a puddle around it.

Best way to get the carbon out is the Otis "B.O.N.E. tool".

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/916402/otis-bone-tool-carbon-scraper-for-ar-15

Image

Great because it only takes a few minutes to scrape/clean and can be taken into the field.

If you're real lazy an inexpensive Ultrasonic cleaner works great too. Usually can buy one cheap from someone who thought they were good for cleaning brass (they do work but it takes half a day of futzing to get the brass clean and lousy for large batches).

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Fri Jun 17, 2016 7:48 am
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Mari wrote:
Hoppes or froglube


:plusone:

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Fri Jun 17, 2016 7:51 am
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Ok, so here we go.. I used Birchwood Casey Super Black Touch-up Pen on my Glenfield model 75 barrel to touch it up..
Wasn't happy with it, so then used Birchwood Casey Blue and Rust Remover to strip the entire barrel, and BlueWonder to blue it.

Well, the Touch up pen won't come off the barrel, even after 5 applications of the Blue and Rust remover !!!!

So, what should I try ??? Called Birchwood Casey, and they had no idea how to strip off there product. They said the Blue/Rust remover should have done it..
So they gave no other help...

Should I try Acetone, or Paint Thinner or ???
Please advise, thanks, don


Wed Sep 13, 2017 2:49 pm
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