Thu Apr 18, 2024 3:54 pm
stompah wrote:
What we wont blame on me is the action of this gun. I shot 2 cylinders of 38 Special without issue. Then I switched over to 357 Magnum and the problems began. A few times when pulling back the hammer it encountered resistance after 75% pull. Like there was a piece of rubber that was causing resistance. Which I couldn't overcome so let the hammer back down and pulled it back to the next round. Every cylinder of 357 had this issue mostly once but sometimes twice. One time even after I swung the cylinder open to position it to rotate on the skipped round.
I brought my Combat Armory Glone to the range. I have been experimenting with my 3D printer and printed up some suppressor height sights. The mistake I made was I printed a small batch of tests sights at normal suppressor height and then modified the file to make them a millimeter or two taller. Well I had a normal suppressor height sight on the back and then threw a taller one on the front. Huge whoopsie. I noticed this right away when aiming at the target for the first time. So I did a 'lil stompah elevation compensation and shot a 5 round mag. Not even close to workable. Then I loaded another 5 rounds and tried using only the green dot. The front sight is way too tall and obstructs the dot. After 10 reliable rounds I put it away.
Then I moved onto my SCT frame lower with Gen 3 23 upper and factory Glock Mag. I had some hiccups. I had the slide lock back after the first round. That was most likely me. But after 10s of thousands of rounds through various semi autos I have never had that happen. But, I will still blame myself. Then I had several failure to feeds. I will have to figure that out.
Thu Apr 18, 2024 4:12 pm
I've had a few successful exercises in smithing Smiths so I'm trying to visualize this .38/.357 experience. Could it be the ejector isn't machined correctly and the rim of the .38 is smaller than the rim of the .357?...not allowing the .357 to sit correctly. That would possibly cause some interference with cylinder rotation.stompah wrote:Another trip to the range report.stompah wrote:
What we wont blame on me is the action of this gun. I shot 2 cylinders of 38 Special without issue. Then I switched over to 357 Magnum and the problems began. A few times when pulling back the hammer it encountered resistance after 75% pull. Like there was a piece of rubber that was causing resistance. Which I couldn't overcome so let the hammer back down and pulled it back to the next round. Every cylinder of 357 had this issue mostly once but sometimes twice. One time even after I swung the cylinder open to position it to rotate on the skipped round.
The 686 was doing the same thing today. I shot 25 357 and 25 38. It hiccuped on both. I can feel it snagging, on what I do not know. I might try another brand of 357 and see if it does it with that also, otherwise it will have to go hack to S&W.
I brought my Combat Armory Glone to the range. I have been experimenting with my 3D printer and printed up some suppressor height sights. The mistake I made was I printed a small batch of tests sights at normal suppressor height and then modified the file to make them a millimeter or two taller. Well I had a normal suppressor height sight on the back and then threw a taller one on the front. Huge whoopsie. I noticed this right away when aiming at the target for the first time. So I did a 'lil stompah elevation compensation and shot a 5 round mag. Not even close to workable. Then I loaded another 5 rounds and tried using only the green dot. The front sight is way too tall and obstructs the dot. After 10 reliable rounds I put it away.
Matching sight height and it shoots great. I will have to modify the sight height as the dot is blocked by the front sight. Not a big deal to edit the files and reprint.
Then I moved onto my SCT frame lower with Gen 3 23 upper and factory Glock Mag. I had some hiccups. I had the slide lock back after the first round. That was most likely me. But after 10s of thousands of rounds through various semi autos I have never had that happen. But, I will still blame myself. Then I had several failure to feeds. I will have to figure that out.
I replaced the trigger assembly and it shot 100%. I suspect this gun was ditched in water and some parts are corroded. There was light rusting inside the slide when I got it. I cleaned it all up but springs are corroded and where the rear sight meets the slide there is a line of rust. So it will have be torn down 100%. I am debating sending just the slide back to Glock for them to refresh it. The cost of parts may be less than shipping a slide to them.
I also shot my Gen 4 Glone Wolf with a G23 slide. It has some aftermarket trigger. The Glock Night Sights are worn and very shiny which mess up my focus (old eyes.) I will be swapping over to basic polymer Glock Sights or some fiber optic sights if I can find a decent pair for slightly more than stock Glock.
I wanted to shoot my KM Tactical G40 10mm slide assembly. But when racking it was catching. The round plate on the recoil spring that sits in the barrel was loose and I believe was catching on the frame. It would bind the slide and hold it open just forward of where the slide release would hold it back. It did the same with my G21 spring. KMT is sending another spring assembly but I do not think that will solve the problem.
So I decided to take the G29 out to play aaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnddddddd left the ammo on the kitchen counter.
I bought a new G35 Gen 4 on GunBroker. I'm just waiting for it to get out of jail. That one is gonna be a fun range toy. It will get the Glock Performance Trigger and some nice sights.
Last night I *may* have ordered some Speer 9mm 124gr ammo. Since I haven't been doing any reloading and don't even have my gear set up.
Thu Apr 18, 2024 5:03 pm
Thu Apr 18, 2024 5:30 pm
Those are all valid questions. I still refer to schematics when reassembling Smiths because it doesn't take much to don't something wrong yet, it still looks right. Something as simple as the hand not functioning within tolerance will make a big change.stompah wrote:Dreadi,
It's possible. One of the reasons why I want to try another brand of 357. The empty cases come out very easily. I like Magtech because in the past they've been the hottest 'feeling' 357 Magnum loads aside from smaller hot ammo makers. I expect a bit more resistance when popping cases out.
I wonder if the empties shake themselves backwards causing the binding.
Could it be that the cylinders are too large?
I will say that before I opened the side plate the feeling of not being able to pull the hammer back was like hitting a pring right before the end of pull back. This time it was more like it was hitching something and I was able to pull it through that wall a few times.
My gunsmithing experience level is:
Is the gun dirty to the point of malfunction?
Is there something off in the action? Obviously off.
Is something physically broken?
Is an errant piece of lead or brass jamming the action?
Beyond that I am not familiar with how to diagnose non-obvious revolver issues.
Thu Apr 18, 2024 5:43 pm
Thu Apr 18, 2024 6:28 pm
Thu Apr 18, 2024 6:43 pm
Thu Apr 18, 2024 8:01 pm
Fri Apr 19, 2024 11:02 am
Fri Apr 19, 2024 10:01 pm
Sat Apr 20, 2024 2:56 pm
Sat Apr 20, 2024 3:18 pm
Sat Apr 20, 2024 10:20 pm
ViniVidivici wrote:Shot more steel with friends, good times! My scores sucked! I blame the wind!
Sat Apr 20, 2024 10:28 pm
MadPick wrote:I helped to run Ladies Day at Cascade today, and stayed afterwards to do some shooting with a friend. I haven’t been doing much actual shooting myself lately, it was good.
Sat Apr 20, 2024 10:50 pm
MadPick wrote:I helped to run Ladies Day at Cascade today, and stayed afterwards to do some shooting with a friend. I haven’t been doing much actual shooting myself lately, it was good.