Yessir... all the internal parts are oem g3 glock minus the barrel

Is the frame an 80%? Do you know anyone local to you with a factory barrel?


As for me I switched out the trigger assembly to a proper 23 Gen 3 and also the slide release. The slide release's spring wire was towards the middle of the frame. Even bending the spring back it will relax towards the middle of the gun. Not sure what happened there. Not sure if that was even an issue. Hopefully going from the SCT 9mm ejector to 40 will clear the case quicker and leave room for the next case. Some ejected cases did have scrapes towards the mouth.

Also just found some aftermarket recoil springs so I will swap that too. (The Glone Wolf has a factory recoil spring, I might just try that.)

Thanks!
Frame is a p80 80% i built, glock lower parts kit, brownells slide wit glock parts kit. SGM Tactical bbl.

I took it down and everything looked OK? Maybe I'm missing something...

This might sound weird, but...did you check to make sure the safety plunger spring is oriented properly underneath the plunger? I had battery issues with a G17 that ended up being a safety plunger spring that had bound up, which was preventing the trigger bar "fin" from smoothly passing over and depressing the plunger. So when I would hold the trigger down and the spent case would eject, the slide wouldn't go fully back into battery until I released the trigger, and even then it didn't always have enough energy to finish that last 5-10% of travel, especially while trying to feed a live round into the chamber. Getting that spring properly re-installed was all it took to get that gun running with no failure-to-fire or failure-to-feed. Not saying that's your issue, but it's worth popping it out to take a look and make sure it's sitting correctly under the plunger.

Shoutout to the Cerakote King of Tacoma for helping figure that issue out!

Sounds like a good recipe, 80% frame w/ Glock internals & aftermarket barrel/Brownells slide.

I know of people with that similar combination whose guns do run 100%.

I'd say, other than checking out details like Guns for Liberty & others have suggested, we try running it with an OEM barrel, to isolate it as the potential culprit.

What brand is the barrel? In my experience, they're not all created equal. I've used some that were perfect, and had one I sent RIGHT back because it sucked. Many of them have tight chambers/short leades.

I'm assuming it passes the "plunk" test with all ammo?

Do the holes for the screw that hold your red dot on go all the way into the striker channel? Is the screw just a hair too long and rubbing on the spring or firing pin? Or is there a bur in there that is slowing the firing pin down?