For outdoor spigots, what is the going labor rate for plumber’s time in Pierce County?

In for the watch, as I need some plumbing as well


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I doubt you'll find a plumber that'll do it by the hour. Small job like that will be bid for the job, or they'll hit you with a 2 or 3 hour minimum.

You trying to replace an existing spigot, or install a new line to a new spigot?

Replace an existing spigot. I’m not trying to pay by the hour. But I am also questioning a bid that, if it is a one hour task, appears to be $700 an hour plus the part.

Ouch. Is it gold plated by chance?


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you can do it yourself, easy for most part


first how old is your house? they don't make the 9" anymore. I went longer.

turn water off run a few facets to drain extra.

unscrew screws from outside. then twist spigot left pull it out and see what your sizing is...pending house age

once you find out you may have to cut a hole in your wall

my garage one went easier

I got tools you can barrow if you plan to do it

its gonna be about a $30 part pending on what you want and go frost free

I appreciate the helpful replies. The house is a 1998.

Here are photos of the two I’d like to replace:

Cmica sums it up nicely. It is good to have access to the threaded connection itself, either from your crawl space or through an interior wall. Allows you to put a wrench on a stuck or corroded fitting so you don’t twist your piping while trying to unscrew the spigot. And also to verify a leak-free joint after you install the new spigot.

Post up a pic of your spigot, so we can get some idea how old it is. Also, do you have access to the threaded joint?

well my house is older, I took a chance from outside first then notice a wet spot inside, thats when I knew the inner wall joint came loose and had no way to tighten it the other way. Garage I just took the sheetrock access off.

Also a good time to move that lower one to a more friendly height.

I would gain access to the area behind before ever putting a twist on anything. It could twist off whos knows where at further up the line or even break a tee off feeding something further up the line.

Murphy's law has taken ANY optimism out of my life.

Agreed.

Prep not needed is cheaper, and easier, than a “I wish I had…”

I remodeled a clients home beauty salon: a leak in her plumbing had destroyed the sheetrock and flooring, so... new sink new faucet (shampoo station) new sheetrock, new subfloor and flooring.
Come back the day after the final flooring went in to tie up loose ends and collect... and the new flooring and drywall are RUINED.

The client's husband had decided to replace his frostfree hose-bib (in the same wall and pipe as the shampoo faucet plumbing) and had installed it without teflon or pipe dope.

Went in dry.

I told him "You wouldn't do that to your wife? Why would you do that to your plumbing? And WHY didn't you have me do it while I had the wall open?"

Get a wrench on both sides of the fitting and for all that is holy, use pipe dope unless it's a sweat fitting.

If you have to ask about plumbing prices, you cannot afford it.

About 10 years ago I had a local plumber come out to replace both of my hose bibs on a 1990 built FHA house. He cut a hole in the drywall at each area stating that the screws holding the female part would break and damage the copper feeding lines in older houses. I had to hold a pipe wrench for him, I told him my help was not free, he chuckled and said duly noted & only charged me half $135.
Case in point, if you snap off the screws thinking you broke the connection you are going to twist up the copper line and really screw things up, as he did on the first one in the front of the house.
If you cannot do it yourself then I would suggest you employ a license and bonded plumber to take care of your problem not your uncle Joe’s nephew apprentice who is just doing a side job.