I need some injectors done I believe on a 2004 Ford 6.0 power stroke it started running rough at idle and dumps black smoke and lacks power so I figure it is injectors. It does smooth out at freeway speeds but a dog if you idle too long. So looking for an affordable shop for the work between Kirkland Bothell Woodinville or Monroe. I know why did I by a Ford with a 6.0 well it was a low mile and better priced than a high milage Dodge with a cummins or a Chevy Duramax.

Thank in advance

If you're are looking for a good dealer, bickford is close to Woodinville and is one of the best for servicing diesel Fords.

I would look online for ways to test the possibly cheaper parts of the fuel system before deciding it's injectors. It could be a for, mine was acting up. Bogging off idle and flooding the engine to the point where it wouldnt start after a drive. I dont know much about diesels but I know injectors can be a big headache to work on and leave your wallet light.

Glen (STED9R) would be a good place to start. You could always put a Cummins in it.

Take it to a dealer and pay to get it diagnosed.
Walt's, Buckey's etc will hose you dry, then laugh at your bleeding ass.

Pull your egr valve off and clean it. 8mm socket(5/16") and 6" extension, flat tip screwdriver to cautiously lever it out.
The intake is going to be icky, look closely at it. Is it wet tar looking shit? Is it just semi dry carbon all over?
Regardless, pull an clean the valve.
Wet intake= bad egr cooler.
Dryish is normal.
Turbo unison ring can also be holding the vanes giving low to over boost(over will give black exhaust).. Would need torn down and cleaned.

There is a rubber hose on pax side of intake that goes to the map sensor. Generally the brass fitting the hose plugs onto plugs up before the hose itself. Pull hose an check brass fitting, if it's plugged pull and run a drill bit through it, if it's slightly bigger it doesn't hurt anything. Check hose if the fitting is plugged.
If your map is plugged you could be tricking the turbo to make more boost, other way around too.

6.0 injectors are sensitive little bitches. They don't like the cold and very particular for type of oil.
I've always dumped half a can of Stanadyne every other or so tank full to keep the injectors clean. AND!!!!!!just replace the fuel pressure regulator, just do it. The injectors will go south if fuel pressure dips and running on low pressure. Google blue spring upgrade, if you can't find one for under $20 let me know, I have a couple at home.

Your best bet is to spend the $129 roughly for dealer scan.
I'd help, but I have yet to buy a new subscription for my IDS scanner, $700 a year...
Get it a full scan an pm the results, I've give you an honest answer.
I do work on these, love the engine quite honestly. I've had one and the boy has one. I'm in a 6.7 now due to comfort features, and the large step up in torque towing.
Besides, with a 6.0 your are not screwing with the expensive exhaust system.
Up until the damn Duramax's got dumped on me, my fleet was 90% 6.0. I'd take a 6.0 any day over a Duramax and the vessel it runs in. Having a fleet of 40+ diesels putting in 400k miles, have a bit of a bias towards how much work in one or the other and which one holds up to abuse.
Cheapest engine out there that'll run 400 horse all day for least amount of monies.

If you havent done the EGR delete check the EGR i went through 3 in less than 40 k miles from new.
Needless to say i longer have the truck. I loved mine until it left me stuck on the road 2x mine was a 2004 xlt lariat crew cab loved it just wish it had been more reliable for me.

Dynomite in monroe

I had an F250 with the 6.0 and quite a few problems. I'd say you should take the money you saved on it and spend it on some reliability upgrades. Until you do, though, that engine is a ticking time bomb.

Does the smoking and low power go away once the engine is warm? You probably have what's known as "stiction", a much-debated topic on all of the Powerstroke forums and one that seems to have no clear resolution, even if you replace all the injectors... it just comes back. There are many snakeoil-style products that may or may not help. If it's not a problem when the engine is warmed up, you may find yourself needing to live with it.

Bulletproofing of the engine involves upgrading EGR cooler, oil cooler (since stock replacements will fail again), upgrading the head studs, and upgrading the fuel injector control module (FICM). If you choose not to do these upgrades, at least replace both the EGR cooler and oil cooler at the same time. Monitor for their failure. The failure of one leads to the failure of the other. If you ever see white smoke (coolant in engine), get on it immediately or you could hydrolock it. You still need to upgrade the EGR cooler even if you block off the EGR valve itself.

Before you take it do a dealer, get and install the blue spring upgrade kit: https://www.amazon.com/6-0-Blue-Spring- ... B071RS785S
It's a cheap fix and increases fuel pressure. If you still have problems, then get it checked out.

Good luck

Started it this morning ran ok until it warmed up then started running rough. I got close to work at an idle started running like crap and loss of power big time. It had gray and black smoke (I think it is dark out) then kind of cleared up or ran better at cruising. It did not look like white smoke in the street lights

Get her scanned.
There's two ways to troubleshoot, cold and hot start. It'll need to be there overnight.
Running like shit when warm brings in another issue, hpop leak or egr issue.
Depending on build date, 2003 to 2004 1/2 are the same while 2004 1/2 an later are different high pressure oil system. I prefer earlier style, pump and oil rail are much better in my opinion.
Then again, could be a resistance issue within the IPR when it gets hot.
Or a ficm dropping out one coil and you're loosing voltage to a bank.(side note of ficm's, do not get a boosted"higher voltage" ficm under any circumstances unless you are dropping $4k into new injectors with the cool coils that can handle higher voltage. Everyone will say it's ok, it's not and you'll just be on the side of the road lighter in the wallet)

Seriously, get it scanned, and not at an Indy shop.
While the independents can be good, 9 times outta 10 they do not have the manufacturers scan tools and need to make money, from you.
I'm $3k into hardware and software on my solely for based scan tool. One I have to renew for $700 every year directly from Ford, I do not know of one single indy shop that does that. Not saying they're bad, but diagnostic capabilities can be limited without the spendy oem stuff.

Chuck Arnold @ Plateau Diesel

https://www.plateaudiesel.com/

Diesel truck work is not for the inexperienced....parts are expensive.

This...But have it dealer scanned, then take it to Chuck for the necessary repairs/upgrades.

If you're able to get down to Fife, I can give a quick look and toss it on my Snapon scanner.
May not be able to fully pinpoint if it's more involved, but if it is relatively common issue the solus will pick it up, or my one good ear!
I'm actually here this Saturday working on a Forerunner roof rack if you want to come down. Won't charge anything to look at it.

Winning

Scanners are one thing..knowing the way things work is what you need and it seems STED9R has a grasp on the workings of your diesel.

STED9R would be my next move....bring coffee n doughnuts.

If you're looking for a shop to take a look at it, Ranaway Diesel in Duvall takes care of all three of my diesels and I've had very few complaints with their work.