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 The QUICK ADVICE Thread 
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Broken 1/8" hex wrench in rusted set screw.

Have a cast steel die (the kind that you place by hand in a hydraulic press) that had the upper set screw freeze up tight. Not sure how, as I never tighten that screw.
The punch is in the mid position, set screw in tight, and I made the mistake of using a light impact driver after heat and WD40 (yes, I wish that I had used Kroil.)
The 1/8" bit was probably Chinese, so hardened and brittle, and she snapped off flush with the top of the lock screw (set screw) which is about 1/4" below the surface of the die.

I used a center punch to start for a left handed drill bit- chipped the tip of the center punch. :facepalm2:
It looks like the center punch did make a mark as it broke the tip, but not enough to get a bite with the left handed bit.

Any advice brethren?


Sun Nov 13, 2016 9:16 pm
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PMB wrote:
Any advice brethren?


Don't whiz on the electric fence.

Oh. For the problem you are having? I got nuttin'.

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Sun Nov 13, 2016 9:31 pm
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High carbon steel like a tap will melt immediately with an oxy-acetylene torch.

I would use a fine gas welding tip (smallest I have) and run the mixture a teeny bit carburized....... this would melt the cheap Chinese bit in a fraction of a tenth of a second and leave the set screw untouched..especially with the size of bit that is broken off.

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Mon Nov 14, 2016 6:53 am
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WaJim wrote:
High carbon steel like a tap will melt immediately with an oxy-acetylene torch.

I would use a fine gas welding tip (smallest I have) and run the mixture a teeny bit carburized....... this would melt the cheap Chinese bit in a fraction of a tenth of a second and leave the set screw untouched..especially with the size of bit that is broken off.


I didn't know how to make this work Jim. It's such a small hole and pretty deep in there.
I've not heard of this trick though, so I am saving it for the first workable opportunity. I might even break off a cheap Chinese bit in a setscrew and throw a torch on it just to see how it works.

What I did instead only solved half of my problem. I slipped a non-conductive sleeve into the hole, turned my stick welder up to 200 amps, and slid a bare-tipped electrode into the center solidly, then popped the electrode holder off the stick. The sleeve guided me in to the center, so I stuck the electrode to only the broken off hex key.

I still have the set screw rusted solid in the cast housing.

But I have a new challenge coming up shortly. I'll come back after a cup of tea and taking some pics.


Wed Nov 30, 2016 2:26 pm
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I love old vises and other tools... And when the weather turns dreary, what better salve for the soggy soul than to pull out a project and get to work on it?
(I'm not kidding anyone... I don't need any excuse to fondle old rusty iron. :drool: )

Attachment:
Columbianrsz_20161130_151812.jpg


This Columbian vise has been on the back burner for too long. It has a broken base and was froze up all over the place. The lead screw was the only thing still movable on it, and that is the part that has now vexed me the most.
I used to have a flat faced spreader tool that I could slip in a keeper ring (to the right on the leadscrew) and spread it out to slip the leadscrew through. No can find, and don't expect to find. I'm looking for alternatives.

Attachment:
Columbianrsz_20161130_142923Keeper.JPG


This mother is a beast. I've tried needlenose pliers and snapring pliers. The keeper laughed. Tiny budge.
This isn't the biggest vise I've taken apart to refurbish, but it has the toughest keeper I've come across.
Any advice for removing this stiff keeper?


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Wed Nov 30, 2016 3:42 pm
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PMB wrote:
I love old vises and other tools... And when the weather turns dreary, what better salve for the soggy soul than to pull out a project and get to work on it?
(I'm not kidding anyone... I don't need any excuse to fondle old rusty iron. :drool: )

Attachment:
Columbianrsz_20161130_151812.jpg


This Columbian vise has been on the back burner for too long. It has a broken base and was froze up all over the place. The lead screw was the only thing still movable on it, and that is the part that has now vexed me the most.
I used to have a flat faced spreader tool that I could slip in a keeper ring (to the right on the leadscrew) and spread it out to slip the leadscrew through. No can find, and don't expect to find. I'm looking for alternatives.

Attachment:
Columbianrsz_20161130_142923Keeper.JPG


This mother is a beast. I've tried needlenose pliers and snapring pliers. The keeper laughed. Tiny budge.
This isn't the biggest vise I've taken apart to refurbish, but it has the toughest keeper I've come across.
Any advice for removing this stiff keeper?

Yeah, I'd use a flat faced spreader tool, to slip into the keeper ring and spread it out!
















:wink05: :ROFLMAO:

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Wed Nov 30, 2016 4:30 pm
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Selador wrote:
PMB wrote:
<snip>
I used to have a flat faced spreader tool that I could slip in a keeper ring (to the right on the leadscrew) and spread it out to slip the leadscrew through. No can find, and don't expect to find. I'm looking for alternatives.

This mother is a beast. I've tried needlenose pliers and snapring pliers. The keeper laughed. Tiny budge.
This isn't the biggest vise I've taken apart to refurbish, but it has the toughest keeper I've come across.
Any advice for removing this stiff keeper?

Yeah, I'd use a flat faced spreader tool, to slip into the keeper ring and spread it out!
















:wink05: :ROFLMAO:


LOL

I would just go out and buy a new flat faced spreader tool... Except the one that I had was ancient. I don't like new tools, but I suppose that you're right. I should at least look around a little and see if they're made anymore or obsolete.
They were built similar to a snapring pliers - but no interchanging tips. Just solid tool steel with about 1/8"+ circular tips.
Google time.


Wed Nov 30, 2016 4:39 pm
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PMB wrote:
I love old vises and other tools... And when the weather turns dreary, what better salve for the soggy soul than to pull out a project and get to work on it?
(I'm not kidding anyone... I don't need any excuse to fondle old rusty iron. :drool: )

Attachment:
Columbianrsz_20161130_151812.jpg


This Columbian vise has been on the back burner for too long. It has a broken base and was froze up all over the place. The lead screw was the only thing still movable on it, and that is the part that has now vexed me the most.
I used to have a flat faced spreader tool that I could slip in a keeper ring (to the right on the leadscrew) and spread it out to slip the leadscrew through. No can find, and don't expect to find. I'm looking for alternatives.

Attachment:
Columbianrsz_20161130_142923Keeper.JPG


This mother is a beast. I've tried needlenose pliers and snapring pliers. The keeper laughed. Tiny budge.
This isn't the biggest vise I've taken apart to refurbish, but it has the toughest keeper I've come across.
Any advice for removing this stiff keeper?


I'd heat up to soften it/destroy it. Then hit Grainger or Tacoma screw for new retainer.


Wed Nov 30, 2016 4:43 pm
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PMB wrote:
Selador wrote:
PMB wrote:
<snip>
I used to have a flat faced spreader tool that I could slip in a keeper ring (to the right on the leadscrew) and spread it out to slip the leadscrew through. No can find, and don't expect to find. I'm looking for alternatives.

This mother is a beast. I've tried needlenose pliers and snapring pliers. The keeper laughed. Tiny budge.
This isn't the biggest vise I've taken apart to refurbish, but it has the toughest keeper I've come across.
Any advice for removing this stiff keeper?

Yeah, I'd use a flat faced spreader tool, to slip into the keeper ring and spread it out!
















:wink05: :ROFLMAO:


LOL

I would just go out and buy a new flat faced spreader tool... Except the one that I had was ancient. I don't like new tools, but I suppose that you're right. I should at least look around a little and see if they're made anymore or obsolete.
They were built similar to a snapring pliers - but no interchanging tips. Just solid tool steel with about 1/8"+ circular tips.
Google time.

Don't you have a really big flat screwdriver that you can stick in the gap and twist to open it more?

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How can I help you, and/or make you smile, today?

You are entitled to your opinion. You are not entitled to tell me what mine must be.

Do justice. Love mercy.

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Wed Nov 30, 2016 5:03 pm
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pdrake wrote:
Great idea for a thread!

Somebody please help me. My elderly neighbor "gave" me his 20-year old Sears sit-down lawnmower. 16HP OHV Briggs & Stratton engine. He bought a new Deere machine, and figured I could use his. It's dead, of course. Flat tire. The older gentleman is kind of soft in the head, and had recently been changing parts (randomly). The folks at Sears were too happy to cooperate. He tried to start it, to show me it works. Well, it cranked, and then spewed gobs of oil on the driveway. I towed it to my place, where it has sat for months. I would dump it in the back 40, but the neighbor's wife tells me it was a gift from a family member.

I am no mechanic. What are the first 3 or 5 things you would do? Somebody suggested it might just have too much oil, and I should drain it and start again. Any advice welcomed!


You said it cranked but not if it fired...Most of these mowers had a pressure type kill switch under the seat. So that if you got off while it was running it would die by cutting spark. I'd bypass that switch first then do the spark check. If you have spark...pour a .22lr shell casing full of gas down the plug hole and reinstall the plug and try cranking it again. Most of the older Briggs OHV engines were pretty frickin tough. Biggest weakness is the carbs can be really finicky if they have sat and the gas turned to varnish. It's hard to get that bad gas out of the idle circuitry.

edited to add...Or you could hotwire directly from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the coil instead of bypassing the seat switch. But you have to disconnect that wire to shut it off as it is direct wired.

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Wed Nov 30, 2016 5:15 pm
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If she says she is 18, better use a condom or two.

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Women look great in short skirts and tight t shirts, wearing no bra. You young folks wouldn't know anything about that.

Yoga pants aren't bad, though.

If you get her pregnant, you better marry her, and raise the kid with two loving parents - or, keep your equipment docked and locked. No exceptions.

Any bad day can be salvaged with coffee, bacon, and whiskey.

Universal quick advice.

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Thu Dec 01, 2016 8:40 am
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Sat Feb 25, 2017 8:25 pm
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I'd go on a diet.

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Sat Feb 25, 2017 8:41 pm
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A diet... Might be a good idea thumbsup but I'm focused on finding a way to fix the broken beam.
Solder- might work but the heat will screw up my scale.
Has anyone tried JB weld on such a slender joint?
I wonder how an epoxy joint will affect the balance. ... I'll be drilling little divots the way manufacturers balance cast sheaves. haha
Madpick is thinking "just buy a new scale, dumbass!"

PMB wrote:
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Sun Feb 26, 2017 10:10 am
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The break is mostly on the balance point... I'll try a hard epoxy. Just wondering if anyone else has ever tried something like this.


Sun Feb 26, 2017 10:11 am
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