Anyone Local who does Parkerizing ?

[mdaniels80]

Looking to have Ak parkerized prior to cerakoting. When i "googled it" it brought me here anyways. thank you.

[TacticalAssault]

Parkerize before Cerakote is redundant, not required and a waste of money. Parkerize is a self lubricating finish that is soaked in oil to give you corrosion resistance. You can't soak it in oil and then cerakote. Heavy de-greasing, bake out and media blast is what needs to be done for cerakote. Skip the parkerize.

[Bxc53]

Parkerize before Cerakote is redundant, not required and a waste of money. Parkerize is a self lubricating finish that is soaked in oil to give you corrosion resistance. You can't soak it in oil and then cerakote. Heavy de-greasing, bake out and media blast is what needs to be done for cerakote. Skip the parkerize.

Thanks for that clarification. To the OP's original question, is parkerizing ( or re-parkerizing) available in the area?

I have an older Springfield 1911 parkerized that has a lot of bubba marks, Is re-parkerizing practical / cost effective?

[TacticalAssault]

Parkerize before Cerakote is redundant, not required and a waste of money. Parkerize is a self lubricating finish that is soaked in oil to give you corrosion resistance. You can't soak it in oil and then cerakote. Heavy de-greasing, bake out and media blast is what needs to be done for cerakote. Skip the parkerize.

Thanks for that clarification. To the OP's original question, is parkerizing ( or re-parkerizing) available in the area?

I have an older Springfield 1911 parkerized that has a lot of bubba marks, Is re-parkerizing practical / cost effective?

I do parkerizing, hence the knowledge. I just assumed that the OP had moved forward since this thread is old. The answer to your question is yes...In all areas. Yes, it's available and yes it's practical/cost effective. A complete 1911 including all the small parts will run you right around $150. That being said I also do Cerakote around that price.

[delliottg]

I can recommend Brandon's work Parkerizing. He's done a couple-three of mine for me and it's always been to my satisfaction.

[Bxc53]

Parkerize before Cerakote is redundant, not required and a waste of money. Parkerize is a self lubricating finish that is soaked in oil to give you corrosion resistance. You can't soak it in oil and then cerakote. Heavy de-greasing, bake out and media blast is what needs to be done for cerakote. Skip the parkerize.

Thanks for that clarification. To the OP's original question, is parkerizing ( or re-parkerizing) available in the area?

I have an older Springfield 1911 parkerized that has a lot of bubba marks, Is re-parkerizing practical / cost effective?

I do parkerizing, hence the knowledge. I just assumed that the OP had moved forward since this thread is old. The answer to your question is yes...In all areas. Yes, it's available and yes it's practical/cost effective. A complete 1911 including all the small parts will run you right around $150. That being said I also do Cerakote around that price.

Very good thanks.I'll be in touch to set it up. PM here best?

[Yondering]

I don't know Tactical Assault, but I'm surprised that someone who does parkerizing doesn't know that it's a porous finish (not self lubricating) which makes it a good base for cerakote to bond with. The porosity of Parkerizing is what holds the oil; in the absence of oil, it's an excellent "primer" base for all sorts of paint-type coatings.
It is certainly more work to do both, so most coaters don't.

[TacticalAssault]

I don't know Tactical Assault, but I'm surprised that someone who does parkerizing doesn't know that it's a porous finish (not self lubricating) which makes it a good base for cerakote to bond with. The porosity of Parkerizing is what holds the oil; in the absence of oil, it's an excellent "primer" base for all sorts of paint-type coatings.
It is certainly more work to do both, so most coaters don't.

Yes...porous which allows the oil to soak in keeping more of it against the steel. It self lubricates the substrate steel keeping it from accumulating moisture and aiding in corrosion resistance. As the oil burns away/evaporates from the steel surfaces of the firearm the remaining oil held in the parkerizing is then drawn from the surface toward the steel (think candle wick) as the oil is drawn from the parkerizing into the steel substrate the parkerizing will lighten in color because it has now lost oil content and has become dry. You're thinking "self lubricating" such as Cerakote's micro slick dry film lubricant. In the process of Cerakote, the parts need to be media blasted in aluminum oxide to remove any old finish and prep the parts for Cerakote. In the process of parkerizing, the parts need to be media blasted in aluminum oxide in order to remove any old finish and prep the parts for parkerizing. So if both processes require the parts to be media blasted in aluminum oxide to prep the steel, as I said...parkerizing before Cerakote or any other spray on finish is redundant, not required and a waste of money. Park first adds zero additional protection or corrosion resistance. Not to mention only carbon steels can be parkerized so that means no stainless or aluminum which many firearms are composed of. It's not a matter of " more work to do both, so most coaters don't." It's a matter of being useless under a spray on type finish such as Cerakote and coaters who don't/won't do it are being honest and saving you some money. Coaters who recommend it or offer it are essentially just making a buck off someones lack of knowledge and understanding. There is NO reason to parkerize steel parts before being Cerakoted and Cerakote doesn't need any sort of "primer."

All that being said...if parts are already parkerized...they can be heavily degreased and baked off before Cerakote and no additional media blasting is required as the part "should" have already been prepped correctly including degreasing and media blast prior to the park which "should" have given the substrate a proper "tooth" to promote proper adhesion.

[Yondering]

as I said...parkerizing before Cerakote or any other spray on finish is redundant, not required and a waste of money. Park first adds zero additional protection or corrosion resistance.

You are correct that dry parkerizing adds no protection or corrosion resistance, but that's not the point. It provides a better base for Cerakote or any other sprayed on finish to adhere to. That is all. Like any coating, a better base layer helps resist chipping and flaking, like you might sometimes see from deep scratches or edge damage. Other than that, the customer would never know the difference. It's not necessary, but it's not redundant either, there is some benefit.

[TacticalAssault]

as I said...parkerizing before Cerakote or any other spray on finish is redundant, not required and a waste of money. Park first adds zero additional protection or corrosion resistance.

You are correct that dry parkerizing adds no protection or corrosion resistance, but that's not the point. It provides a better base for Cerakote or any other sprayed on finish to adhere to. That is all. Like any coating, a better base layer helps resist chipping and flaking, like you might sometimes see from deep scratches or edge damage. Other than that, the customer would never know the difference. It's not necessary, but it's not redundant either, there is some benefit.

I can tell that you skipped over parts of what I said. The point is that Parkerizing and Cerakote BOTH require the parts to be media blasted with aluminum oxide to rough up the surface. In the case of Parkerizing it's to allow the Parkerizing solution to better penetrate the steel. In the case of Cerakote it's to promote proper adhesion. A media blasted piece is no rougher AFTER being Parkerized so therefore generally is the same texture and has the same microscopic "tooth." Park before Cerakote is redundant. There is no difference from a media blasted surface and a media blasted and parkerized surface. Park before a spray on finish is a waste of time, product and money as well as adds impurities and contaminants to an otherwise already degreased and prepped part and adds the extra steps of degreasing and pre-baking the parts that were already degreased and pre-baked to begin with. There is no noticeable or discernible benefits to Park before Cerakote. Parkerizing and Hard Coat anodize are acceptable bases for Cerakote simply because of the initial prep involved before the application of those coatings.

[Unicorn]

as I said...parkerizing before Cerakote or any other spray on finish is redundant, not required and a waste of money. Park first adds zero additional protection or corrosion resistance.

You are correct that dry parkerizing adds no protection or corrosion resistance, but that's not the point. It provides a better base for Cerakote or any other sprayed on finish to adhere to. That is all. Like any coating, a better base layer helps resist chipping and flaking, like you might sometimes see from deep scratches or edge damage. Other than that, the customer would never know the difference. It's not necessary, but it's not redundant either, there is some benefit.

No it doesn't. With KG Guncote parkerizing might be useful.

But with Cerakote you apply it to bare steel that has been sandblasted with 100 grit aluminum oxide or garnet sand. That gives it the proper texture or roughness for the Cerakote. You don't need parkerizing as some sort of primer.

[Yondering]

"needs" vs "better". Seems to be a disconnect here. I'm well aware that both processes are done on abrasive blasted steel; I wouldn't be commenting here if I didn't have experience with it.

If you're saying a park base isn't better (not needed, but better), have you proved it for yourself? How?