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 The WeenieWagun version eh whatever the hell we're on now... 
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Are your front axleshafts U-joint or 5 balls or birfield?


Tue Aug 22, 2023 7:35 pm
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Old Growth wrote:
Are your front axleshafts U-joint or 5 balls or birfield?


U joint.

There are 2 major 'eaters' of grease... the rest aren't super bad, just that there are like 100 of them... and with big equipment, it's not like '2 squirts and it's done' kind of thing. :bigsmile:

One thing I love about .mil vehicles -- Free service manuals.

The TMs, LOs, etc are all available freely, and they're designed, quite literally, for an 18 y/o kid who has never touched a truck before, and it goes into painstaking detail about every tiny little thing.

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Last edited by TechnoWeenie on Tue Aug 22, 2023 8:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.



Tue Aug 22, 2023 7:45 pm
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TechnoWeenie wrote:
Old Growth wrote:
Are your front axleshafts U-joint or 5 balls or birfield?


U joint.



NO need for the massive amount of grease in those knuckles then.

Ujoint axles hold grease very well. Its the old 5 ball and the newer birfieds that are exposed inside the knuckle cavity and need lubrication.


Tue Aug 22, 2023 8:52 pm
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Steering knuckles including kingpins
tierod and drag link
drivehsaft ujoints (6 of them)
steering ujoints (2 I think)
wheel bearings (12 total, 6 hubs)
Misc suspension/leaf bushings
pintle swivel

What else gets grease?

Other than the steering knuckles and the wheel bearings all the rest of that just gets a few pumps.


Tue Aug 22, 2023 8:58 pm
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Old Growth wrote:
TechnoWeenie wrote:
Old Growth wrote:
Are your front axleshafts U-joint or 5 balls or birfield?


U joint.



NO need for the massive amount of grease in those knuckles then.

Ujoint axles hold grease very well. Its the old 5 ball and the newer birfieds that are exposed inside the knuckle cavity and need lubrication.


On these rigs, it's supposed to encapsulate the entire thing, with a rubber boot for protection, so you're filling the entire knuckle housing and not just the U-joint zerks themselves. There are 2 plugs, each gets removed when putting grease into their corresponding zerk. 3-4 lbs is expected per knuckle.

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Tue Aug 22, 2023 9:01 pm
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Old Growth wrote:
Steering knuckles including kingpins
tierod and drag link
drivehsaft ujoints (6 of them)
steering ujoints (2 I think)
wheel bearings (12 total, 6 hubs)
Misc suspension/leaf bushings
pintle swivel

What else gets grease?

Other than the steering knuckles and the wheel bearings all the rest of that just gets a few pumps.


Yup, wheel bearings and steering knuckles take most of that....


https://www.jatonkam35s.com/M939-5%20to ... 272-12.pdf

power steering cylinder
axle U joints
steering knuckles
tie rod
front/rear wheel bearings
steering gear shaft
spring shackle
speedo adapter
spring trunnion bearings
hood trunnion
ALL U-joints (I can't remember exact count, I think 8 or something?)
pintle
drag link
front axle drive shaft
propeller shaft center bearing

I think that's it. I'm just glad I don't have an M936 wrecker. They have something like an extra 3 pages of grease/lube points.

:bigsmile:


Usually takes about an hour to grease all the standard fittings, minus bearings, of course. Also, a lot of that stuff isn't super critical, like the hood trunnion, but there is indeed a zerk for it.

being able to clip on/clip off, squeeze a trigger, wait a couple seconds, and move to the next one, is a HUGE time savings.

Being that this was in service with FD, I have every expectation to be either pushing out really old grease, or replacing washed out grease that's not there anymore.

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Tue Aug 22, 2023 9:07 pm
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TechnoWeenie wrote:
Old Growth wrote:
TechnoWeenie wrote:
Old Growth wrote:
Are your front axleshafts U-joint or 5 balls or birfield?


U joint.



NO need for the massive amount of grease in those knuckles then.

Ujoint axles hold grease very well. Its the old 5 ball and the newer birfieds that are exposed inside the knuckle cavity and need lubrication.


On these rigs, it's supposed to encapsulate the entire thing, with a rubber boot for protection, so you're filling the entire knuckle housing and not just the U-joint zerks themselves. There are 2 plugs, each gets removed when putting grease into their corresponding zerk. 3-4 lbs is expected per knuckle.


I know all too well. Ive owned several. 2.5 and 5 ton. I even have set of rockwells and 16.00s under one of my chevy pickups. I have several toploaders out here in the parts pile.

Rebuilt tons of them over the years. Literally TONS of them since a pair of 2.5s is around 1200lbs and 5 tons are around 3000lbs, lol!

The ujoinys just sit in there and dont actually mix up/stir or whip any grease into them. Filling all the empty space is a huge WASTE of grease that will just gets scooped out next time ya repack them.

Now the 5 ball or birfields are a different story. Those like grease. But even those kinda just push it out of the way and then run dry anyways.

99 percent of the time the crappy axle seals just let all the 90wt run into the knuckles anyways making it all the soupy consistency of #1 grease. But that usually only happens if you offroad a bunch or leave the rig parked on a side hill.


Just my .02


Tue Aug 22, 2023 9:14 pm
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Old Growth wrote:
TechnoWeenie wrote:
Old Growth wrote:
TechnoWeenie wrote:
Old Growth wrote:
Are your front axleshafts U-joint or 5 balls or birfield?


U joint.



NO need for the massive amount of grease in those knuckles then.

Ujoint axles hold grease very well. Its the old 5 ball and the newer birfieds that are exposed inside the knuckle cavity and need lubrication.


On these rigs, it's supposed to encapsulate the entire thing, with a rubber boot for protection, so you're filling the entire knuckle housing and not just the U-joint zerks themselves. There are 2 plugs, each gets removed when putting grease into their corresponding zerk. 3-4 lbs is expected per knuckle.


I know all too well. Ive owned several. 2.5 and 5 ton. I even have set of rockwells and 16.00s under one of my chevy pickups. I have several toploaders out here in the parts pile.

Rebuilt tons of them over the years. Literally TONS of them since a pair of 2.5s is around 1200lbs and 5 tons are around 3000lbs, lol!

The ujoinys just sit in there and dont actually mix up/stir or whip any grease into them. Filling all the empty space is a huge WASTE of grease that will just gets scooped out next time ya repack them.

Now the 5 ball or birfields are a different story. Those like grease. But even those kinda just push it out of the way and then run dry anyways.

99 percent of the time the crappy axle seals just let all the 90wt run into the knuckles anyways making it all the soupy consistency of #1 grease. But that usually only happens if you offroad a bunch or leave the rig parked on a side hill.


Just my .02


You are correct. My boots are shot already, though. So they'll need to be replaced, so in the meantime they're gonna be overlubed since the only risk of overlubing is blowing seal on boot, and mine are already toast... no issue. What's an extra couple squirts of grease? My axle seals are fine...

I wanted to spring for synthetic grease, but in the quantities I need, it's just not feasible right now. The only manufacturer that meets current .mil specs that I found is Castrol, and it's $600+/pail, and even then, it's a semi-synthetic.. and there's a guy on Steel Soldiers who has put hundreds of thousands of miles on 900 series trucks and even HE says GAA is overkill. It was designed to work in the Sahara, in 120*+ ambient, and in the Arctic tundra at -40*, without any compromises.

I do appreciate your input/insight though - I guarantee you have a shit ton more experience with these axles than I do. I tend to overanalyze and try to make the best decision for my situation based on all the data I collect. Took me like 3 months just to settle on a grease, and everyone is saying it doesn't matter as long as you don't use moly in bearings. I have to keep reminding myself that these trucks were designed well before I was born, and even the shittiest lubes these days are 10x better than the most expensive stuff they had back then. I'm reminded of that when I see the 'emergency operating procedures' that list WATER as an emergency oil replacement for the engine... Not that it'll run for very long, but with such loose tolerances, it'd run long enough to get you off the battlefield... I think it was something like '30wt/10wt/50wt/GO/water/anything liquid' or something like that, in order of engine lube usability in the Hercules/White multifuels designed in the 50's.


I ended up with a 5 gallon pail of lithium complex, extreme pressure, no moly, NLGI GC-LB, NLGI 2 for $134 before tax.

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Tue Aug 22, 2023 9:22 pm
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The best rockwellaxles I ever seen where in the "Ride the Ducks" shop.

They were having their own DOT approved disc conversions cast up. They were very nicely done disc brake conversions.

Also they were welding up a mounting flange around the axle between the knuckle and the leaf perch. This flange was a mount for an improved boot. They then had their own SILICONE one piece boots that were water tight.
They were also using allison autos and a mix of 7.3 powestroke and 427 chev tall deck engines.

For some reason a half dozen or so of the trucks still had the old shitty GMC axles. GMC axles where under the truck that failed, crashing into the bus on the bridge and killed the orientals aboard.
The steering knuckle ball portion of the housing is known for cracking and falling off.

Super impressive shop, parts inventory, and works being performed there. A shame to see it all go away.


Wed Aug 23, 2023 9:24 am
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TechnoWeenie wrote:
I have to keep reminding myself that these trucks were designed well before I was born, and even the shittiest lubes these days are 10x better than the most expensive stuff they had back then.

I ended up with a 5 gallon pail of lithium complex, extreme pressure, no moly, NLGI GC-LB, NLGI 2 for $134 before tax.


Most of the military axles I have torn down had a clear/whitish kinda grease that was VERY waxy in the bearings. Must be some kinda super water resistant grease. The bearings were always in great shape tho.

I always watched for years for a can of that grease to come through the scrap, but it never did.


Wed Aug 23, 2023 9:29 am
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Old Growth wrote:
TechnoWeenie wrote:
I have to keep reminding myself that these trucks were designed well before I was born, and even the shittiest lubes these days are 10x better than the most expensive stuff they had back then.

I ended up with a 5 gallon pail of lithium complex, extreme pressure, no moly, NLGI GC-LB, NLGI 2 for $134 before tax.


Most of the military axles I have torn down had a clear/whitish kinda grease that was VERY waxy in the bearings. Must be some kinda super water resistant grease. The bearings were always in great shape tho.

I always watched for years for a can of that grease to come through the scrap, but it never did.


I have an NSN if you need it. But, last I checked, it was ~$100/14 oz tube.

The only one I found that meets the .mil spec is made by Castrol and is about $600/ 35lb pail.

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Wed Aug 23, 2023 12:17 pm
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Fri Sep 01, 2023 6:29 am
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jukk0u wrote:
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2mpg

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Fri Sep 01, 2023 7:33 am
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TechnoWeenie wrote:
jukk0u wrote:
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2mpg 1gpm

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Fri Sep 01, 2023 8:31 am
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I've been looking at reefers since I just re-priced insulation - and it looks like it's gonna be cheaper to BUY a reefer van body than it would be to insulate the body I have. Go figure.

So, I was concerned about ventilation, since reefers are buttoned up pretty good.

ChatGPT to the rescue..

Quote:
Calculating the exact time it would take for a person to consume enough oxygen or exhale enough carbon dioxide to make the environment unsuitable for respiration in a sealed room is a complex task that depends on several variables, including the person's metabolic rate, lung capacity, and the initial concentration of oxygen in the room. However, I can provide a rough estimate based on some general assumptions.

1. **Volume of the Room:** The room's volume is 7' x 12' x 7' = 588 cubic feet (assuming you're talking about a room with standard atmospheric pressure and temperature).

2. **Oxygen Consumption:** On average, a person at rest consumes about 250 milliliters (ml) of oxygen per minute. For simplicity, we'll assume this person is at rest.

3. **Carbon Dioxide Production:** A person exhales about 200 ml of carbon dioxide per minute at rest.

4. **Initial Oxygen Concentration:** We'll assume the room starts with a normal atmospheric oxygen concentration of about 21%.

Now, let's calculate how long it would take for a person to deplete the oxygen in the room to a level that becomes dangerous (below 18%) and accumulate enough carbon dioxide to be harmful (above 5%).

- The room volume is 588 cubic feet.
- Initial oxygen volume in the room: 588 cubic feet x 0.21 (21%) = 123.48 cubic feet of oxygen.

Let's calculate the time it takes for the person to consume this initial oxygen volume:

\(Time_{oxygen} = \frac{Initial\;Oxygen\;Volume}{Oxygen\;Consumption\;Rate} = \frac{123.48\;cubic\;feet}{0.25\;cubic\;feet/min} = 493.92\;minutes\)

So, it would take approximately 493.92 minutes or about 8 hours and 14 minutes for a person at rest to consume enough oxygen to lower the oxygen concentration in the room to a potentially dangerous level.

Now, let's calculate how long it takes for the person to produce enough carbon dioxide to reach a potentially harmful concentration:

- Initial carbon dioxide volume in the room: 0 cubic feet (assuming the room starts with no carbon dioxide).

\(Time_{CO2} = \frac{Room\;Volume \times CO2\;Threshold\;Concentration}{CO2\;Production\;Rate}\)

\(Time_{CO2} = \frac{588\;cubic\;feet \times 0.05}{0.2\;cubic\;feet/min} = 147\;minutes\)

It would take approximately 147 minutes or about 2 hours and 27 minutes for a person to produce enough carbon dioxide to reach a potentially harmful concentration.

Therefore, it would take longer for oxygen depletion to become a concern than for carbon dioxide buildup in this scenario. However, please note that these calculations are based on simplified assumptions and actual results could vary significantly depending on many factors, including the person's activity level, health, and the initial room conditions. In reality, oxygen levels below 18% and carbon dioxide levels above 5% are already dangerous and can lead to unconsciousness or death. It's essential to prioritize safety and ensure proper ventilation in enclosed spaces.


So, if I battened down the hatches and sealed things off, I'd have ~2 hours before I'd have to get out.

I'm thinking maybe I can source a surplus GPFU and run it in bypass mode but switch it on when I need it. Think of a gas mask, but for a whole vehicle, positive pressure, so nothing can come in even with imperfect sealing. But maybe that's way overkill. It'd be nice in wildfire season though. :D

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Fri Sep 01, 2023 7:36 pm
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